For The Love of Travel

San Carlos de Bariloche (commonly called Bariloche), in Argentina’s Patagonia, is a town bordering Lago Nahuel Huapi, a large glacial lake surrounded by the snow-crowned Andes.  The name Bariloche means “people from behind the mountain”. The indigenous Poya people used the Bariloche pass to cross the Andes, keeping it secret from the Spanish priests until the 16th C. 

The explorations of Franciso Moreno and the Argentine campaigns of the “Conquest of the Desert” established the claims of the Argentine government. In the 1881 border treaty between Chile and Argentina, the Nahuel Huapi area was recognised as Argentinian. The modern settlement of Bariloche developed from a shop established by Carlos Wiederhold.  A small settlement developed around the shop, and its former site is the city centre.  By 1895, the settlement was primarily made up of German-speaking immigrants as well as Italians from the city of Belluno, and Chileans. In the 1930’s, the centre of the city was redesigned to have the appearance of a traditional European central alpine town (it was called “Little Switzerland”) .

It’s currently known for its Swiss alpine architecture and its chocolate, sold in shops lining Calle Mitre, the main street. I tried chocky delights at Mamuschka, Frantom and Rapa Nui (roughly $3 for 100g) and wow! they melt in your mouth…they specialise in what I describe as the “Sarah Lee effect”, layer upon layer.. upon layer.. of chocolate with other incorporated delicious flavours. 

It’s also a popular base for hiking and skiing. Dominating the view in all directions along the Chilean border, the snowcapped cone of 3776m (12,388ft) Volcán Lanín is the centerpiece of Parque Nacional Lanín, which extends 150km (93mi) from Parque Nacional Nahuel Haupi in the south to Lago Ñorquinco in the north.  

After the previous day’s 12 hour journey across the lakes….I was a total tourist for the day I had in Bariloche – took the Circuito Chico tour in the afternoon. That was amazing….panoramic views across Lake Nahuei Huapi…..interesting intro to history of the establishment of the city centre by Carlos Wiederhold, and his lovely hotel, Llao Llao (pronounced Shao Shao).

A journey of over 12 hours…sailing on 3 lakes and riding 3 buses. Woo hoo!

This area has 283 days of rain annually, so very lucky gal to be seeing sunshine and clear views all day!

Firstly stopping off early in the morning to see Petrohue falls, with the beautiful Osorno volcano dominating the background. 

The Calbuco volcano that erupted last year created lots of local damage, including the walkway to the falls. Lucky me, repairs were completed last week allowing us to visit. 

Then, sailing on Lago Todos Los Santos surrounded by volcanos (Osorno, Puntiagudo) and other national park mountains. Very beautiful. 

At Peulla, 4 brave women (2 from Argentina, one from Costa Rica and I) decided to sign up for a helicopter ride over the Andean mountains crossing over the border between Chile and Argentina. What an amazing view! My favourite snaps are of Puntiagudo in the distance and a glacier with a waterfall of ice spilling down a craggy mountainside.  

We went through Chilean Immigration and briefly farewelled pisco sours!

To transfer to Lago Frias, a bus ride past the Tronador volcano. Awesome. 

Lago Frias was pleasant and gave us our last view of Tronador. 

After going through Argentinian Immigration, we were off by bus to the last lake for the day, Lago Nahuel Huapi. Huge and surrounded by craggy peaks, but not as speccy. But a lovely ‘ceremony’, with the captain blowing the boat’s horn to honour Perito Moreno, who discovered the lake and is buried on an island in it.  A last bus ride to our hotel!  Exhausted and exhilarated all at the same time.

Puerto Varas, central Chile, is a cute little town on the second largest lake in Chile, Lake Llanquihue. The area has a German influence in its architecture and delicious kuchen pastries and jams. Volcano Orsano in National Park V Perez Rosales, abutting the Lake, is shrouded on some days in heavy cloud, but I was lucky to see this lovely sight….on the drive around the lake, of some 200 kms. It was THE thing to see. 

Visited Chiloe Island, Punihuil cove just hiding off the Pacific Ocean, to see little Magellanic and Humboldt penguin colonies – lovely.  

Tried to see the traditional stilt houses in Castro on the island as well, some drive and all!…but the river had subsided and the stilts were deep in mud….not the pretty picture I was after. Oh well, Google images always comes to the party, thank you Steve Raffin!