For The Love of Travel

My favorite places, photos and stories

March 9, 2016
by Lids
Comments Off on 6/3/16 Saunders Island and Carcass Island, Falkland Islands/Malvinas

6/3/16 Saunders Island and Carcass Island, Falkland Islands/Malvinas

Saunders is the fourth largest island in the Falklands, and is run as a sheep farm and has an area of 132 square kilometres. Dolphins escorted us in our zodiac, to the island!  DSC01474

We watched the black-browed albatross chicks nest and moult on the cliff edge, while their parents performed aerial acrobatics and came in for very clumsy grass slope landings…very entertaining. DSC01498 DSC01490 DSC01486 DSC01517

And then saw some Magellanic penguins, standing near their burrows.  DSC01518

When we arrived at Carcass Island in the afternoon, the sunshine was shining, it was ‘hot’ (temperature of 15C, requiring no windbreak clothing nor thermals!!).  Monterey palms were blowing in the breeze, the sea was turquoise blue….and a little yellow yacht was bouncing on the waves. DSC01539We were slightly confused, a bit mediterranean in feel!! We saw the crested caracara falcon nesting in a tree with its mate, and black-crowned night herons chirping away.   DSC01535DSC01549

Our last landing on this most splendid of holidays (and the last time I take off the muck boots, yay!) – we are at sea tomorrow, sailing for Ushuaia, then onto a charter flight to Buenos Aires on 8/3.

The Australian contingent (15) on the ship had a special dinner tonight in the chart room….a lot of fun, there are some characters!

March 9, 2016
by Lids
Comments Off on 5/3/16 Stanley, Falkland Islands/Malvinas

5/3/16 Stanley, Falkland Islands/Malvinas

DSC01397 DSC01400DSC01416The town was established here in the 1840’s, chosen for the sheltered harbour and abundant supplies of peat and fresh water nearby. Stanley is the hub of the Falklands with development of local industries and depopulation of the countryside leading to the town, doubling its size, in the last 25 years.

A group of us visited the Long Island farm, with a huge number of sheep, and a large peat bog area that they dig up for heating and also sell to the local community.  DSC01422 DSC01403We got to see Mt Harriet, where the English army (unexpectedly) attacked the Argentinians encamped on the mountain from the rear, leading to the eventual capitulation of Argentina in the war.

And saw a geological area called ‘the Runes’ – where rivulets of rock that had tumbled down from the top of the mountain where a glacier had been progressively receding.

The museum in Stanley has a 10 minute video of adults talking about their childhood in 1982 and the impact on them of the 74 day war between England and Argentina. I wandered around town taking photos of houses, garden, a ‘liberation’ monument and a tribute to the Beagle, the ship that brought Captain Fitzroy from England (with a young Charles Darwin aboard).DSC01463
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Tonight, one of the naturalist staff on board, Rodolpho from Argentina, spoke about how many Argentinians didn’t want the war, nor to fight in the Falklands, but were forced to participate being threatened with dire consequences, if they did not. He wrote a beautiful poem in Spanish about peace and freedom in response to the war taking place – and read it to us (then his translated English version). Very emotional moment.

Gorgeous sunset around 10pm…P1310610

March 5, 2016
by Lids
Comments Off on 2/3/16 King Haakon Bay, South Georgia

2/3/16 King Haakon Bay, South Georgia

King Haakon Bay lies between Nunez Peninsula and Bomford Peninsula near the western end of the south coast of South Georgia.  It was here that Shackleton and crew arrived in the James Caird in 1916, after another gruelling voyage from Elephant Island. Despite unchartered waters and a jagged reef to manoeuvre past, they guided the vessel into the protection of the bay and found a small cove and cave to offer protection from the elements. Here among the cliffs at Cape Rosa’s headland, Shackleton’s men found fresh water and albatross chicks for fresh meat, which sustained them over the next 4 days while they recuperated and repaired their boat. They then sailed further into King Haakon Bay, landing at Peggotty Bluff, and made a 36 hour trek across the island to the Grytviken whaling station to reach help.

Today our first stop is at Peggotty Bay, another early 5.45am first light zodiac anding. Bleary-eyed, we stumble onshore and walk for a while. Then the sun comes up and the landscape is transformed – I stand on a hillside and view the delightful scenery.

To my left, rivers of silver glisten in the rays, with soaring cliffs covered in cloud and glaciers as a backdrop.  DSC01207 (1)DSC01193 (1)

To my right, squishy mossy green turf, with small water holes, glacier topped mountains in the distance and a bright blue sky! Magic!DSC01196

Next to Cape Rosa headland in King Haakon Bay – it is a dramatic, weather-beaten fjord, surrounded by snow clad mountains rising to over 1,000m.

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We briefly visited Cave Cove, took a photo outside the cave Shackleton and his men lived in for 4 days, and jumped back into the zodiac (big waves coming into shore so we had to be nimble!!) to journey back to the ship. DSCN6147

We saw a South Georgia Pippit!  DSC01282A bird once made almost extinct by rats on the island is now breeding again, thanks to a rat extermination/baiting program implemented over 125 square kilometres by the Heritage trust over the past 5 years. Very cute colours and we saw about a dozen in  an hour’s zodiac cruising. Also, a Kelp Gull, a Brown Skua, South Georgia Pintail and a couple of Imperial (Blue-Eyed) Shags.  DSC01275

We sail through the Willis Islands with a breathtaking iceberg appearing out of nowhere….calved off a glacier at some stage and with brilliant blue hues! Gorgeous!  DSC01340