For The Love of Travel

My first stop this morning was at City Hall. Queen Victoria granted Belfast city status in 1888, prompting the construction of this a lovely baroque ornate civic structure. She’s an imposing figure at the front. Hadn’t heard of Mary Ann McCracken (1770 – 1866) before, but she has a plum position to the side of the Queen Victoria statue, commemorated for her social activism. She was an advocate for women; organised relief and education for the poor; and in a town that was heavily engaged in trans-Atlantic trade – abolition of slavery.

It was a grey and rain showery morning so I took a city sightseeing bus tour (only a few pics due to generally inclement weather).

As we came around the corner of Donegall Quay, a magnificent ceramic mosaic’d fishy appeared…called the ‘Salmon of Knowledge’ (or ‘Big Fish’ or ‘Pat the Fish’), sculptured by John Kindness in 1999.

Sun peeked out briefly but the wind chill factor was awful, as we neared this fabulous architecture that contains the Titantic museum. Had the interactive Titantic experience in Melbourne a couple of years ago and didn’t feel the need to revisit.

The steel woman holding the ring is the ‘Beacon of Hope’ (locally known as ‘Nuala with the Hula’), this 19.5m statue by Andy Scott, represents peace and harmony.

The guide on board the bus told us that the Europa Hotel was the site of many a bombing, 33, during ‘The Troubles’, 1970-1994. It became a landmark for journos during that time. It famously hosted Bill Clinton in 1995.

What would locals call this two spheres metal structure? ‘Balls of the Falls’, ‘the Testes of the Westies’ or ‘the Westicles’, of course! The RISE sculpture is a public art installation designed by Wolfgang Buttress standing at a height of 37m. Commissioned by the City Council, the inner sphere represents the sun rising over the bogs and the outer sphere represents the sun’s halo – together representing peace, growth and a new sun rising to celebrate a new chapter in the history of Belfast.

After the bus tour, immeditely made my way to The Ivy Brasserie, (saw the venue as we careered around a corner), to get some warming tea after experiencing one and a half hours of freezing winds and occasional showers…wow! so glad I did. Gorgeous fitout and decoration.

And the toilets…..wow again. No hint on who designed these marvels.

Dinner tonight @ the Chubby Cherub, one of the most delicious pasta meals I’ve had…’Diavola Gamberello Boreale’ – prawn, penne, chorizo, green snake beans, sundried tomato and chilli – yummo! And another charmingly decorated place that’s cosy and inviting. Won TripAdvisor’s ‘Travellers Choice Award’ in 2025.

I went on a political West Belfast tour in a classic black cab which offered an in-depth look at “The Troubles,” featuring murals, the Peace Wall, and personal stories from Norman, my guide.

The Republic of Ireland has maintained a strong, critical stance regarding Israel’s military campaign in Gaza, characterized by high-level diplomatic criticism, humanitarian funding, and legal intervention. Along Falls Rd, the murals are largely about Republican sympathy for the Palestinian cause.

The Battle of the Falls was a 34-hour military operation by the British Army in the Lower Falls area of Belfast from July 3–5, 1970. Over 3,000 troops imposed a strict curfew, firing vast amounts of CS gas and engaging in gun battles with the IRA, resulting in 4 civilian deaths, hundreds of arrests, and deep alienation of the Catholic community against the Army.

The Bobby Sands mural is a significant site on the Falls Road related to the 1981 hunger strike. Outside the prison, the momentum and support for the Hunger Strikers were growing. When a by-election was called in the Fermanagh South Tyrone Parliamentary Constituency due to the death of the sitting Independent Member of the British House of Commons, Frank Maguire, an opportunity was presented which afforded the Hunger Strikers, the IRA and its supporters the ability to highlight the prisoners demand. After serious negotiations within the Nationalist community, it was agreed by all other parties and individuals interested in contesting the seat that Bobby Sands would be nominated on 30th March 1981 to stand as a candidate for the vacant Parliamentary seat. Bobby Sands received more votes in his 1981 by-election than Margaret Thatcher did in her own constituency in the 1979 general election that brought her to power. Sands secured 30,492 votes in Fermanagh and South Tyrone, while Thatcher received 19,290 votes in her Finchley constituency.

Sands died on 5 May 1981 in the Maze’s prison hospital after 66 days on hunger strike, aged 27.

The strike was called off after ten prisoners had starved themselves to death, including Sands, whose funeral was attended by 100,000 people. The strike was the driving force that enabled Sinn Féin to become a mainstream political party.

The Clonard area in West Belfast is a significant historical interface, bordered by a prominent peace wall that separates the nationalist Falls Road from the unionist Shankill Road. This structure, is part of a 21-mile network of barriers built from 1969 onwards. The cage enclosure at the back of the building you see, is a precaution against homemade bombs being lobbed over the ‘peace wall’ (in days gone past!).

Loyalist neighbourhood…..

The Shankill Road is a major, historic thoroughfare in West Belfast, known for its predominantly Unionist and Loyalist community, vibrant political murals, and central role in The Troubles. Running 2.4 km from central Belfast, it offers a deep, often sobering, insight into the city’s complex history, culture, and peace process.

The area is famously adorned with murals celebrating local history, the Royal Family, and Ulster loyalism, alongside poignant memorials. You have to zoom-in to look at the King’s Guard expression…cracked me up!!!

The Shankill is near the significant Peace Wall that divides it from the nationalist Falls Road, which can be visited to see messages of peace.

I had no idea about this, but was shocked to learn that Belfast has ‘peace gates’ – which close early in the evening to manage ‘interface security’ (to prevent conflict at flashpoint locations between unionist and nationalist areas) – commonly 8:30 PM. I was also shocked to learn that in Northern Ireland (mostly Belfast but also Londonderry and Portdown) – there are 97 individual walls, gates, and barriers. They vary from high concrete walls to metal fencing, wire mesh, and iron gates. Although a 2013 goal aimed to remove all walls by 2023, the deadline has been missed, with many residents still feeling safer with them in place, despite surveys showing growing support for their removal. So SAD.

And then, there are the paramilitary groups in Belfast, including the UDA and UVF (loyalist) and various republican factions, which remain active despite ceasefires, using intimidation and violence to maintain a “stranglehold” on certain communities. Over 25 years after the Good Friday Agreement, these organizations are primarily involved in racketeering, extortion, and organized crime, rather than terrorism – often targeting local businesses for “protection money”.

Education data from tells me that there are 1,064 primary and high schools in Northern Ireland – with around 90% of schools in Northern Ireland remain split along religious lines, with only about 8% of pupils attending integrated schools.

As of September 2025, there are 76 grant-aided integrated schools across Northern Ireland, including 11 primary and post-primary integrated schools located specifically in Belfast.

Another gorgeous day to wake up to…sun was shining at 7am! Took the opportunity to drive off early from Derry and when reaching Whitepark Bay, ohhh! reminded me so much of Aussie beaches…made me feel a bit homesick. And that cute picturesque little hamlet nestled in the cliffs around the corner? Portbradden.

Had to take a detour to Ballintoy harbour…..just because….

In relation to the first image (below)…can you see Carrick-a Rede Rope Bridge in the distance – look at the point between 9 and 12 (on the clock)….first erected by fishermen in 1755, suspended almost 100ft above the Atlantic Ocean. Atlantic salmon were first fished at Carrick-a-Rede and Larrybane in 1620 but it wasn’t until 1755 that the first rope bridge between to the rocky island of Carrick-a-Rede was erected to reduce reliance on a boat to reach the island. In the 19th century more than 80 fishers, 21 salmon fishers and 10 fish carriers were working in the parish of Ballintoy. Catches of up to 300 salmon a day were common until the 1960s. Centuries of salmon fishing are now just a memory. Fishing pressure at sea and river pollution led to a decline in salmon and the last fish was caught at Carrick-a-Rede in 2002.

Next image…does “Game of Thrones’ mean anything? Series 2, Episode One…the road Arya takes to escape King’s Landing…ok, so the pic is taken during the day and there is no mist and foreboding…but I love the bendy beech trees! The beech trees planted back in the 18th century by the Stewart family to impress visitors heading to Gracehill House… and still stopping people in their tracks today.

Took the coastal road via Cushendall and loved the Carnlough harbour on arrival…because of its quaint and oldy-worldy feel; and further on, loved this incredibly groomed hedge that appeared out of nowhere…

Carrickfergus Castle (constructed by the Normans 849 year ago) has been an imposing monument on the Northern Ireland landscape whether approached by land, sea or air. It’s still standing tall and proud having been through a lot: sieges by the Scots, Irish, English, and even the French, and it served a key military role until 1928. But despite all that, it’s one of Ireland’s best-preserved medieval structures.

It was fab weather to put droney up to photo the castle and surrounding town.