For The Love of Travel

I walked from my really well situated hotel in the ‘Museumquartier’….down a neighbouring street Pieter Cornelitz Hoofstraat…what an amazing collection of high end boutique stores….Tiffany and Co, Hermes, Dior, Bvlgari, Prada – you get the gist. (He was a Dutch historian, poet and playwright in the late 19thC). As I got to the end of the street, saw this amazing building with decorative figures.

My first bridge with a view of canal boat cruises….looking like a great morning, but pretty soon after, the weather changed to grey and drizzly…..argh!

Next to ‘Foam’, an international photography museum, with a mission to make photography accessible to everyone. Loved the British photographer, Martin Parr (1952-2025) exhibition…titled ‘Very Modern and Rather Ugly’…he’s celebrated for his ability to make the familiar look strange and the boring interesting. Themes of consumption, cultural identity, tourism and class are central to his works. He was an amused observer of contemporary society. His works make me either cringe or laugh out loud.

A very searing exhibition of Julia Kochetova’s ‘ War is Personal’ images. She’s a Ukrainian photographer and documentary maker – she makes the personal realities of conflict tangible and confronts you with questions about memory, survival, and the meaning of home as conflict persist. Every story carries a name, a face, a body. As you first walk into the space, you get the read this…

Funeral of 2 year old Anhelina Halych (she was killed with her mother Nadia in the same attack).

Iryna Tsybykh was a combat medic and a close friend of Julia’s. She was killed in the Khariv region on 29/5/24, days before her 24th birthday.

I had already booked a canal cruise, so off I trudged, hoping we didn’t get any rain. And managed to jinx myself as the drizzle started. Arrh! Still, we were in an enclosed boat (unlike some others) and I was looking forward to seeing 17th century buildings lining the canals and gorgeous bridges glide by. Check out the tiniest house along the canal, and the iconic ‘dancing houses’, built on wooden poles driven through soft peat into sand and now subsiding.

In between driving to locations and enjoying tourist experiences, I’ve been applying for drone operator registration in Ireland. Quite the process. I won’t bore you. Have achieved. Yay!!!

A 2 hour journey from Nimegen north west, brings you to one of the most beautiful quiet and rural villages, Broek in Waterland, with about 2500 inhabitants. In the 17thC, it used to compete with mighty Amsterdam. It had a very deep harbour (twenty metres deep at some point), allowing big East India vessels to dock here. The most striking sight in Broek in Waterland are the old wooden houses.

Many are painted in muted greyish-blue, making Broek in Waterland a village with ‘fifty shades of grey’, boom boom! These pretty houses preserve their original details, like ceremonial doors (used only for marriages and funerals), carved and colorful lintels (a way of identifying a house before the invention of house numbers) and stone tiles on the chimneys (to prevent witches from flying in, true story).

Monnickendam, historic, less-crowded fishing village near Amsterdam with, traditional houses and a scenic harbor, is one of the hidden gems, (not included in the tourist circuit,) therefore it’s relatively quiet all year round. Only 15 kilometres distance from Amsterdam, makes it an easy day-trip, by bus, car or bike, whatever you choose. If I was able to ride a bike, that’s what I’d choose…as the route from Amsterdam takes you through green fields, canals and the lovely Broek in Waterland village. Liked the statue of the eel smoker and fisherman on the habour’s edge, wearing traditional dutch clogs. In the past, the village was full of eel smoke houses, this craft has almost disappeared.

Home to approximately 2,000 residents, Marken however is on the tourist route! It’s little more than one square mile of land connected to the mainland by the Zeedijk—a causeway constructed in 1957 to the mainland — and very easy to navigate in just a few hours.

After a major storm in the 13th century, and the fact that the surrounding peat bogs succumbed to excessive mining, Marken was transformed into an island and instantly caught the attention of Frisian monks who saw this newfound insular location as an opportunity to build their monasteries. After occupying the land during the 13th and 14th centuries, the monks left when Amsterdam purchased Marken in the latter part of the 14th century. During the 17th century, Marken prospered with its booming fishing and shipping industries and the village’s economy thrived until the early 20th century, when in 1932, the Zuiderzee or the Southern Sea was cut off from its northern counterpart by the Afsluitdijk or dam enclosure project, and thus put an end to this seaside town’s primary source of income. Today, tourism drives the Marken economy but so does its cheese and wooden clogs manufacturing as well

As you make your way in and around Marken, I found that the village has retained much of its original character and color with most of the buildings and houses intact and either resting upon dikes or pilings— reminders of the onslaught of flooding endured by these Dutch habitants throughout history. Little pathways meander in and around these charming dwellings and canals cut through the landscape adding more beauty to this picturesque Dutch village.

Tried a quintessential national snack, bitterballen at a local cafe (braised beef that’s been thickened with a roux, rolled into little balls, breaded and deep-fried until crispy. Can’t say I’ll be having again….something about the soft texture and taste of the mixture. Liked the crispy outside though.

Heading into Amsterdam, drove through another tiny village of about 320 people, Zuiderwoude. The sheep were interested in the passing traffic…

I liked the feel of Maastricht as soon as I arrived – lots of greenery, water, laneways, gorgeous ancient building decorations. I read a few “GetYourGuide” walking tour itineraries over a coffee this morning and devised one for myself. Luckily, my hotel is 500m from the central market which tends to be close to the centre of the action…so easy to find my way around.

First stop the Museum of Illusions – it’s about experiencing visual illusions and a range of hands-on activities that allow you to become part of them. This space-like tunnel sent my senses into overdrive! Lots of fun.

Next to the Wilhelmina bridge for a view over the Meuse river, the boats lining up for river tours and pedestrians promenading along the waterway.

A shop window I walked past beckoned me….called Manu Facta. A caricature of a lady in a polka dot swimsuit. Jewellery of silver and glass. Paper poppies and clay houses. Scarves and dresses of soft silk. Vases of colorful paper and powerful ceramics. Manu Facta is a cooperative of artistic women. Joining forces, they run this artistic shop together. It was a fun browse.

I kept walking down St Pieterstraat and found myself in the Jeker Quarter, one of the oldest parts of Maastricht. The area played a crucial role in defending the city for centuries. The oldest buildings – some even dating back to 1200 – can be found around the river Jeker, which formed a natural defence. Impressive medieval city walls, water mills, green parks, fortifications and the famous Helpoort (the oldest surviving city gate in the Netherlands) – lovely.

Loved this ‘Children playing marbles’ sculpture in the area. Found a fab delicatessen and bought asparagus pate and a couple of salads for dinner.

It’s all happening @ Vrijthof Square – St John’s church and St Servatius basilica in the background, the Hawt Uuch Vas fountain in the foreground, surrounded by cafes and restaurants – great for people watching…for a price. Unveiled in 1978, the fountain was created by sculptor Frans Gast, capturing the essence of togetherness and festivity. The name ”Hawt Uuch Vas” translates to “Hold each other”, reinforcing its symbolic representation of community, joy, and charity.

One of the must-sees in Maastricht: possibly one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world. This building used to be a Dominican church in the 13thC and is now a bookstore (the Dutch are very fond of converting and repurposing places, especially churches). With a Gothic church structure, vaulted arches, sturdy bluestone pillars, and stained-glass windows, it is a charming place and a feast for the eyes. It functions as a bookstore, has some souvenirs and a cafeteria.

Loved this florist shop on my way back to the hotel.

And I noticed this delighful boutique hotel, bar and garden, Fitz/Roy, apparently with a capacity for about 30 guests. Had a double espresso to regain energy for the last kilometre back to the hotel.

Across the road, the SUD jewellery store beckoned. I loved this little memento of Maastricht to take away with me…made by one of the sister’s that have formed a company called ‘Muse’s Alchemy’.

There’s an ‘interpretive’ mosaic for D’Artagnan, and monument – he who had a career in espionage for Cardinal Mazarin, served for Louis XIV, promoted to captain-lieutenant of the Muskateers in 1667, and died at the siege of Maastricht (Franco-Dutch War) in 1673. Very swashbuckling!

11,957 steps of walking today, my best for quite a while. Woo hoo!

Set off this morning and decided I needed a day off from being a tourist. Well, I had my problem solving skills tested on arrival in Nijmengen, when the car park ticket machine wouldn’t accept either my debit or credit card payment. Luckily, had 12 Euros in coin, just as well, blimey.

I am booked into a hotel for 1 night in the ‘pedestrian quarter’ before I head to Amsterdam tomorrow, so I took some clothing items from the main suitcase, added my meds/cosmetics bag…put them into a small carry-all and trumbled them along with my small carry-on suitcase over the cobblestones approx 1 km to the hotel. Having dropped them off, looked for a lunch spot that was close…Bagels and Buns loomed large. So pleased I walked in. Very relaxing vibe, delightful service from young ones and delish offerings – I had the iced strawberry matcha tea with a spicy tuna and avocado bagel. The sambal addition to the bagel was sensational.

My hotel is on Lange Hezelstraat, and given it’s the ‘oldest street in the Netherlands’ …thought I’d wander along it for a while…. mostly disappointed as its very touristy (in the worst kitsch way), but there are some some sensational bakeries, deli’s, homeware stores and of course, cheese shops. Got sucked into visiting Kaashandel de Wit…..and bought a couple of (vacuum packed) farmhouse cheeses for dinner in Amsterdam…pesto (with added pinenuts, fenugreek, basil, garlic, and tumeric) and a spicy one (with fermented garlic and chilli peppers). Can’t wait to try them. Stay tuned…will send a pic when I eat them.

On my way back to my hotel, saw this adorable scene and had to take a pic – asked them all for permission of course – all chose their ‘pose’ for the shot. Hah!