For The Love of Travel

Drove from Muscat to Birkat Al-Mawz (“Pool of the Plaintains”), one of the famous villages in ruins in Oman and home to the 1500 year old Falaj system irrigation system listed as a UNESCO heritage (using a well to pump up water from underground and water channels being directed across terraces to the land to be irrigated). I walked through one of its palm tree oasis’ and through the village. 

Drove up Al Jebal Al Akhdar (the “green mountain”?? – very dry when I was there), the central section of the Al Hajar mountain range in Oman – had to use 4WD low gear for some of the descent! 

Good preparation for my journey to Jebel Shams, along the western part of the 300 kms Al Hajar mountain chain, the following day.   On my way to Jebel Shams, visited the Tanuf mud brick village, which was once a crucial part of the Al Dakhiliya region of Oman, but the ruins are an indication of its dramatic history – they are a memorial to British-backed bombings of rebel villages in the late 1950’s, who were opposed to the Sultan of Muscat increasing his control to become the Sultan of Oman.  

Then to Misfat Al Abryeen, a unique mountain village about 1000m above sea level on the mountain foothills surrounding Al Hamra., reached by driving up a zigzagged road which is paved to the village entrance. The village interior could be described as Oman’s “Positano” – steep stairs that weave down and across the mountainside, levelling out on occasions to allow for mud homes with palm frond roofs, to be built on solid rock alongside the agricultural terraces, gardens and plantations. Heavy going in the midday sun, when I arrived. But discovered a lovely little oasis called “Misfah Old House” at which to have a cold bottle of water, coffee or lunch. Or all 3, as happened in my case. And as I rounded a corner after lunch, a beautiful little model prepared to pose for me….

Then to Jebel Shams (mountain of the sun), the highest point in Oman, some 3000 metres. Beautiful views over valleys of with multiple layers of sharp peaked mountains fading into the background. Glad I had that prep the day before…a desolate road, the tarmac giving way to a dusty unpaved bumpy road that requires a pair of skilful hands to navigate! No guard rail, so even a small oversight means disaster, hurtling to the bottom of the local canyon! But once up the top, what a vista! Especially from the Al Nakhr Canyon, the “Grand Canyon” of Arabia.

I thought it would be a great place to gaze at the starlit night sky and experiment with some night photography….discovered there was still some light pollution from nearby villages….ah well. Still working on the technique…

4 hour drive from Jebel Shams in Oman to Al Ain over the border to UAE, my next stopping off spot. Border crossing was surprisingly easy!

Have I mentioned before that Oman was pretty alcohol free everywhere? Discovered when I got to Al Ain that they have a couple of alcohol stores…..went on advice from my hotel to the cheapest store, “High Spirits”….its next door to the Hilton Hotel….turn right at the ring road, go 50m, turn left down a lane that looks like you’re headed for the tip…and bingo!….you have found the little hut that looks like an old outpatient clinic entrance with a ramp….no outside advertising of its function. Hysterical! Have to thank my expatriate mate at the hotel for clear instructions!!  

Abu Dhabi tomorrow – woo hoo.

Sayyid Qaboos bin Said Al Said is the Sultan of Oman. Educated at Oxford and Sandhurst, he rose to power at 30 after overthrowing his father, in a palace coup in 1970. He is the 14th-generation descendant of the founder of the Al Bu Sa’id dynasty.  The Sultan is the chief of staff of the armed forces, chairman of the Central Bank, Minister of Defence and Minister of Foreign Affairs. Sharia law is the source of all legislation in Oman, and the Sultan’s authority is inviolable.

The Sultanate with a population of 4 and a half an million, is on the southeast coast of the Arabian Peninsula. Over 43% of the population are expatriates. A largely desolate area, it was known mainly as a producer of dates and camels before the discovery of oil. Sayyid’s motivation for the coup was to create a better society for Omani residents – his father apparently was ‘old guard’ and resistant to  spending revenue from massive oil reserves to create opportunities for improving the education and health of his citizens….trade of fish, dates and some agricultural products along with tourism now form a significant portion of the economy of Oman, in addition to oil (900,000 barrels per day!), gas and copper as major exports.

Omanis are great breeders of Arabian horses and have a reputation as the best ship builders.  

Cultural dress for women is a hijab (veil) and abaya (long dress) and for men, a dishdasha – ankle length robe, and fez.

Frankincense, a component of the most valuable perfume in the world–Amouage–is produced and traded in Oman.

Here are a few pics from my wanderings over the last couple of days…….

The impressive Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque–was built in six years (in the 1990’s) from 300,000 tons of Indian sandstone. It can hold 20,000 worshippers. The prayer carpet weighs 21 tons and brings together classical Persian Tabriz, Kashan and Isfahan design traditions. The imposing chandelier is 14 metres tall, holds 600,000 shining bright Swarovski crystals, 24 carat gold plating and is the world’s largest. Loved the decorative mosaics both within the mosque and in the surrounding courtyards. 

Mutrah Souq is one of the oldest markets in Oman, dating back some 200 years, with narrow winding alleyways roofed with wood. Your senses are tantalised by aromatic smells of frankincense , incense, and Arabian perfumes. It’s noted for its handicrafts like daggers, silverware, traditional clothes and the famous Omani sweet – Halwa. The man in the Abaya shop I walked into told me he sells over 1,000 units a month @ a cost of between $80- $200AUS, depending on the intricacy of the design. 

This sculpture is of an incense burner….placed in a garden high on a hill that overlooks the Mutrah corniche. 

Al Alam Palace is the ceremonial palace of the Sultan, used to receive high-ranking officials and Heads of State. The building has four decadent gold and blue columns and adorned arches, tiling and carvings befitting a Sultan. Not open to the public. Built in 1972, it’s an example of contemporary Islamic architecture surrounded by lush gardens and the Mutrah harbour. 

Mohammed Al Ameen mosque was completed in 2014 – my favourite mosque in Oman at night, its golden domes and azure blue building making it stand out against the night sky – breathtaking. 

Travelled south down the east coast, to see the Bimmah sinkhole, a water-filled depression, a lake 50m wide and approx 20m deep – a refreshing dip after a climb down from the park that surrounds it. Locals believe it was created by a falling star….stunning reflection of clouds in the water when viewing from above.