For The Love of Travel

My favorite places, photos and stories

September 26, 2017
by Lids
Comments Off on 25/9/2017, Katowice

25/9/2017, Katowice

Started out of Brno at 9am…drizzle, traffic jam on the opposite side of the highway heading into Brno. 3 hours later get into Katowice, weather has improved, some sun! But can’t find my airB&B at the address I have. Ring…discover they are redecorating and have a new place on the other side of town for me, ‘just as nice’. I love my GPS! If I didn’t have that, would be seriously stressed. Mission accomplished in 15 mins! Keys to apartment and apartment block handed over, I’m shown car garaging facility and remote control function ….over to you they say. Just leave our keys @ level O in box 34! No worries I say, thinking….I think I have all that.

Consulted my crib notes and decided to drive to Katowice’s no 1. attraction, Nikiszowiec estate.  It’s a worker’s housing estate of red brick apartment blocks grouped around gardenlike courtyards, there’s a red brick church and other buildings, all close to the mine and green surroundings…. a pearl of social housing architecture; designed in the late 19thC, Nikiszowiec initially was a coal miners’ settlement of Giesche mine between 1908–1918. In 1960, Nikiszowiec was incorporated as a part of Katowice. 
The remnants of the original workers’ housing estate ‘familoks’ (specialized multi-family residences designed for workers in heavy industry) comprise one of Poland’s official national ‘Historic Monuments’. 

Close by, the Galeria Szyb Wilson is a modern art gallery. Arguably Katowice’s best art space, comprising an impressive 2,500 square metres divided into three halls. It was supposed to be full of “seriously bonkers, yet compellingly high quality sculpture, graphic and installation art- some playful, some political – hidden throughout the dozens of small nooks spidering throughout the building”.
When I went there today, lots of empty walls, ladders, canvass covers…either they are preparing for an exhibition … or….closing down. Nice to see a few paintings though and loved the ivy covered building outside! 

I’ve also contacted the National Archives of Katowice and asked questions about Mum’s side of the family and hopefully they’ll get back to me on those.

September 25, 2017
by Lids
Comments Off on 23/9 – 24/9/2107, from Cesky Krumlov to Brno and surrounds…

23/9 – 24/9/2107, from Cesky Krumlov to Brno and surrounds…

Driving from Cesky Krumlov to Brno, my GPS took me via a very strange and longer route than I anticipated. I’m looking at the map, I’m looking at the GPS and the 2 don’t seem to be ‘communicating’. Arggh. Anyway, found medieval Castle Kamen along the way, an important strategic point for Hussite troops in the religious wars in the 15th century.  Really bad weather along the way and many a roadworks to hold traffic up on the freeway, where I was driving. Got into Brno at 16:00 and was really tired.  Watched a European Volleyball Championship game on TV, Czech vs Belgium…so close… but Czech Republic won. Then read a bit of a “the Road to Ruin”, by Niki Savva….got me to sleep pretty quick. Haha! 

Better weather the following day….my one day in Brno….started in Namesti Svobody (Freedom Square): amazing early Baroque plague column from 1689, its  a reminder of plague outbreaks in Brno. Then walked to Moravian Square, with the amazing St Thomas Church and the equestrian statue of Jobst of Luxembourg by sculptor Jaroslav Róna. 

Was driving to get to the Cathedral and all of a sudden saw David Cerny’s “Pink Tank”,  a symbol of the fall of Communism in 1945, that has been installed at Komensky’s Square as part of an exhibition. 

Lots of huffy puffy to get to the Cathedral of St Peter and Paul, located on Petrov Hill.  It is a national cultural monument and one of the most important pieces of architecture in South Moravia. The interior is mostly Baroque. Beautiful detail on wooden pulpit staircase. What an amazing ‘confessional’!

Just a few kilometres away…I parked my car down a side street, and walked up (serious huffy puffy!)  to Špilberk Castle.
Its construction began as early as the first half of the 13th century by the Přemyslid kings and completed by King Ottokar II of Bohemia. From a major royal castle established around the mid-13th century, and the seat of the Moravian margraves (military commanders) in the mid-14th century, it was gradually turned into a huge baroque fortress (considered the harshest prison in the Austro-Hungarian empire) and then into barracks.  This prison had always been part of the Špilberk fortress.  At the same time Špilberk was used as a prison, Protestants were the first prisoners forced to serve time here, followed later by participants in the revolutions of 1848–49, although hardened criminals, thieves and petty criminals were also kept here.  There was a Modern Art exhibition today and I liked the following two paintings…

Lastly, went to visit Vila Tugendhat, designed by Ludwig Miles van der Rohe, in the wealthy suburb of Cerna Pole! A pioneering prototype of modern architecture, quite minimalist!  Loved some of the other buildings in the neighbourhood…

September 23, 2017
by Lids
Comments Off on 21 – 22/9/17, Cesky Krumlov

21 – 22/9/17, Cesky Krumlov

Got my Budget rent a car in Prague, and tried to work the GPS. The guy who handed over the car couldn’t speak English. Grrr. Anyway, using my Iphone which wasn’t connected to Internet, but nevertheless showed me where I was in the city…managed to get myself on a highway out of Prague to Cesky Krumlov, some 170kms away. When I arrived, discovered I’d have to park my car and walk into town, taking only what I could carry to the hotel. Really happy with the boutique hotel that I had chosen….only about 700m from car park, delightful Czech cooking and super friendly staff. The green/red ceramic looking thing to the right, is a heater – they stoke a fire inside and it keeps you warm over winter months, a “Pech”, its called.
As soon as you leave the carpark, you see the amazing viaduct and you walk under it to access the town. Unrivalled even among UNESCO world heritage sites, this 700 year-old village is full of magic. With a river looping around twice, you can’t help but walk around in circles all day in amazement, as I did, certainly the first afternoon.

Cesky Krumlov (“crooked meadow” after a bend of the Vltava river), settlement arose beneath the castle, which was erected from about 1240 onwards by a local branch of the noble Vitkovki family, decendants of Witiko of Prcice, whose ‘line’ eventually ran out!

Krumlov was then ruled by the following family sequence: Rosenbergs, Hapsburgs, Eggenbergs and Schwartzenbergs (1719-1945).

Cesky Krumlov was part of the German-Austrian Bohemian Forest Region, but by the end of 1918, the Czechoslovak army occupied the region. In 1938 it was annexed by Nazi Germany under the Munich Agreement. After WW2, the town’s longstanding German speaking population was expelled and it was returned to Czechoslovakia. During the communist era, historic Krumlov fell into disrepair, but since the Velvet Revolution of 1989 much of the town’s former beauty has been restored. Yay ?!!  

St Vitus Church, lacked the capacity to serve the needs of the growing population of the capital residential town of the Rosenbergs. So Peter 1 von Rosenberg looked after its reconstruction between 1407 and 1439. Baroque tower, neo gothic interiors that are rich both in design and in material used.

The Monastery of the Order of the Knights of the Red Star, was founded in 1350 at the initiative of the Krumlov ruler Peter I of Rosenberg and his wife Kateřina as a common monastery of Minorites and Clare nuns. From the end of the 14th century, the complex also included a house for lay religious women, called “beguines“. The stay of the Clare nuns was  brought to an end by reforms of Emperor Joseph II in 1785, but the Minorites stayed in the monastery until as late as 1950. After that the monastery premises were used for secular purposes. Incredible Baroque church and chapel.

 

 

 

 

A pear and nut strudel for lunch! Delicious.

And a visit to see an Egon Schiele exhibition (a protege of Gustav Klimt’s), of paintings done when he visited Cesky Krumlov from Vienna. His work is noted for its intensity, an early exponent of Expressionism, so sad he died at 28 from flu.