For The Love of Travel

My favorite places, photos and stories

October 7, 2017
by Lids
Comments Off on 6/10/17 Łańcut Castle (pronounced wine – tsut)

6/10/17 Łańcut Castle (pronounced wine – tsut)

Drove from Sanok to Łańcut Castle, a journey of some 90 kms this morning.

The Castle lies on the fringe of the Carpathian foothills, by an old trade route which linked Western Europe and Ruthenia (Hungary, Ukraine and Poland) from medieval times. The town was chartered in 1349, and its first owners were the powerful Pilecki family. They built the first wooden-defensive manor, in which Poland’s monarchs were frequent guests.  The Pilecki family is associated with the marriage of King Wladyslaw Jagiello with Elzbieta Granowska nee Pilecka, which provoked a scandal in those days (she had been kidnapped twice by different suitors; married a career diplomat, with her husband dying from poisoning 13 years after; she was a middle-aged widow when he married her and she had no political connections).  The years 1568-1628 were a time of ruin for the town. Łańcut Castle belonged to the Stadnicki’s, Stanislaw (the “Devil of Lancut”) Stadnicki and his sons. Adventurism and war against their neighbours led to the burning and levelling of the castle and the destruction of the town, which was overrun and sacked by enemies many times. 

Under the rule of the Lubomirski family from 1628 to 1816, Łańcut Castle came back to life.   The early seventeenth century was a time of Turkish expansion into Europe, for which reason Stanislaw Lubomirski set out to turn Łańcut into a strong fortress to guard against entry into the Republic. In the mid-seventeenth century the castle was considered an unassailable fortress. In 1761 the synagogue which stands to this day was built.

In the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries, the fortress was transformed into a palatial residence. The outer ring of fortifications was liquidated, with an English-style park put in its place. The castle interiors were adapted to the fashions of the times. Elzbieta Lubomirska nee Czartoryska, a collector and excellent connoisseur of art, played a large part in this. 

The next and last owners of Lancut were the Potocki’s, who were tied by marriage to all of Europe’s aristocracy.  The palace we see today is the result of their efforts in 1889-1911. They faithfully maintained the grand interiors from the days of the Lubomirski’s, concentrating more on introducing modern conveniences. They put in a water and sewer system, and added luxurious bathrooms to the chambers. The number of bathrooms must have shocked their contemporaries: after a tour of the castle, Roman Potocki’s mother declared that its interior reminded her of Dianabad, the largest public baths in Vienna. 

In 1906, the castle gained an electrical system with its own generator. The last interior to be modernised was the palace theatre, renovated to the designs of Viennese architects.

 

 

 

 

 

The palace surroundings changed as well. The park area nearly doubled. An Italian garden and a rose garden were added, and orchid and palm houses were built, the latter modelled after the palm house in Schonbrunn. 

The Potocki’s remembered the towns people as well. At the turn of the century they completely renovated the parish church. The distillery founded by the Lubomirski’s was modernised and enlarged, producing the quality-famed spirits of Count Alfred Potocki’s Privileged Distillery of Liqueurs, Rosoglios and Rum.   During the occupation, German army staff were stationed in the castle. When the outcome of World War II became obvious to everyone, Alfred III Potocki, the last of Łańcut lords, dispatched about six hundred crates to Vienna by rail, containing the most valuable works of art. Among them were paintings by Bellini, Boucher, Fragonard and Watteau, eighteenth-century tapestries manufactured in Aubusson, sculptures by Thorvaldsen. Alfred III himself abandoned Łańcut a week before the Soviet army crossed into Poland, never to return again. That the residence was spared plunder and destruction at the hands of the Soviets is due to the courage and resourcefulness of the palace staff, and their loyalty to Potocki.

October 6, 2017
by Lids
Comments Off on 5/10/17 Sanok and surrounds

5/10/17 Sanok and surrounds

Sanok, in south-eastern Poland lies directly below the Carpathian Mountains.  Once settled by Poles, Jews and Lemkos (a minority group within the Ukrainian community), the town’s history goes back almost 1000 years when it was part of a medieval trade route. The region also features a 70km trail for hikers and cyclists.I spent some time travelling around villages looking for old wooden Medieval churches, deeply influenced by the Greco-Catholic and Orthodox  presence in the region.Some display a Greek Cross and onion domes, but the most interesting of the churches combine these features with the Roman forms with elongated naves and steeples.  Also some lovely old wooden houses…


What I’ve got to appreciate in my car journeys,  is
how Catholic Poland really is —so densely Catholic in fact, that a Google map showing Catholic parishes in the country has barely any empty space. Whether it’s a church building, a cross-roads wayside chaplet or a statue on a green mound in the middle of nowhere…there’s always a prayer reminder within metres.

While in Sanok, the no.1 thing to do is visit the Royal Castle and see the special gallery wing dedicated to Zdzislaw Beksinki – a 20thC Polish painter, photographer and sculptor, specializing in the field of dystopian surrealism. (Dystopias are often characterized by dehumanization, totalitarian governments, environmental disaster or other characteristics associated with a cataclysmic decline in society).
Beksiński had no formal training as an artist. He was a graduate of the Faculty of Architecture at the Krakow Polytechnic with a Master of Science received in 1952.  Beksiński undertook painting with a passion, working intensely and only whilst listening to classical music. He soon became the leading figure in contemporary Polish art.

In the late 1960s, Beksiński entered what he himself called his “fantastic period”, which lasted up to the mid-1980s. This is his best-known period, during which he created very disturbing images, showing a gloomy, surrealistic environment with very detailed scenes of death, decay, landscapes filled with skeletons, deformed figures and deserts. These paintings were quite detailed, painted with his trademark precision. At the time, Beksiński claimed, “I wish to paint in such a manner as if I were photographing dreams”.  He credited music as his main source of inspiration. Beksiński avoided concrete analysis of the content of his work, saying “I cannot conceive of a sensible statement on painting”. He was especially dismissive of those who sought or offered simple answers to what his work ‘meant’.

October 6, 2017
by Lids
Comments Off on 3/10 – 4/10/17, Muszyna and Krynica

3/10 – 4/10/17, Muszyna and Krynica

Muszyna (pronounced “Moosh- ina), is a small rural spa town in southern Poland of about 5,000. Great air, great natural mineral waters found here. They are rich in bicarbonates and oxalates of calcium, magnesium, sodium and iron. They also have traces of lithium and selenium.   My great grandmother lived here and Mum used to visit her in holidays. Great gran was part of a network of ‘alternate therapy’ practitioners (in her day, aka…herbalists).

The town lies in the valley of the River Poprad and at an altitude of about 450m above sea level in the Sadecki Beskid mountain range and only about 5km from the Slovak border.   Muszyna specialises in the treatment of musculoskeletal disorders, diseases of respiratory and gastrointestinal tracts, neurological conditions, metabolic diseases, gynaecological and psychosomatic disorders. I’m not sure why they left cardio vascular out…they seem to have taken onboard everything else! 🙂

Krynica (pronounced “Cri – nee – tsa), a few kilometres down the road, is the biggest spa town in Poland; often called “the Pearl of Polish Spas”.
And its a popular tourist and winter sport destination situated in the heart of the Beskids mountain range. Took a gondola up to see the sights and beautiful autumnal hues are starting to appear. When I got down from the mountain, noticed this woman walking with a mushroom she’d just picked and told me she was making soup for lunch. Its mushroom picking season apparently. A very pretty town with lots of cafes, restaurants, gardens and water features.