For The Love of Travel

My favorite places, photos and stories

October 10, 2017
by Lids
Comments Off on 9/10/17 Łódź

9/10/17 Łódź

Łódź may look like it’s pronounced ‘Lodz,’ but it most certainly isn’t. It’s ‘Woodge’. In terms of age, Łódź is one of the youngest cities in Poland and a direct product of the Industrial Revolution. The birth of the textile industry saw Łódź dubbed ‘The Promised Land,’ with thousands flocking from central Europe, England and even Switzerland to make their fortunes.  Unfortunately, WWII saw the high times come to an end and the city’s rich ethnic balance destroyed with the extermination of the Jewish population and the post-war exile of the city’s ethnic German population.

Today, however, Łódź remains an important cog in the Polish wheel.  Derelict factories are being converted into luxury apartments, ‘Manufaktura’ – the largest shopping and entertainment development in Central Europe – ranks as one of the most impressive urban regeneration projects anywhere, and its success has inspired further bold urban planning projects. 
The famous film school founded in 1948 as a pet project of Stalin, has nurtured the talent of Polanski, Wajda and Kieslowski. Piotrkowska St – Europe’s longest pedestrian street – rates as one of Poland’s most famous party places. It’s lined with restaurants, beer gardens, hot-dog stands, and a mix of neo-renaissance and art nouveau buildings; some in chronic disrepair, others restored to their former glory. A statue dedicated to Arthur Rubenstein 
 
Łódź’s most recognizable hotel can be found halfway down Piotrkowska.  Constructed in 1887-1888 the neo-renaissance Grand was originally the work of Ludwik Meyer, though the building saw sweeping renovations (including an extra floor) in 1913, courtesy of the architect Dawid Lande – a man whose designs deeply influenced the appearance of Piotrkowska. Functioning as a hotel for over 100 consecutive years, the building has in the past sheltered an A-Z of heroes and villains, including Isadora Duncan, Roman Polański, Tito and Himmler.
 
Size counts in Łódź and the city is also home to Europe’s largest cemetery,  Europe’s biggest urban park (Łagiewnicki) and the worlds largest Gillette factory. A trip to the botanical garden will leave you in no doubt that it’s the largest in the country. 
 
Oh and my last visit to ANY church in Poland, and Łódź’s largest church, the Cathedral.   A true Gothic masterpiece, it was built between 1901 and 1912, styled along the lines of a typical medieval cathedral, original drawings supposedly supplied by the Berlin architect, Emil Zillmann.  Damaged by a fire in 1971, the Cathedral has been painstakingly restored including the addition of a new roof supported by modern steel trusses.

October 9, 2017
by Lids
Comments Off on 8/10/17 Rzeszow and Sandomierz

8/10/17 Rzeszow and Sandomierz

The history of Rzeszów begins in 1354, when it received city rights and privileges by Casimir the Great.  Local trade routes connecting the European Continent with the Middle East  and the Ottoman Empire resulted in the city’s early prosperity and development. In the 16th century, Rzeszów had a connection with Gdansk and the Baltic Sea. Following the Partitions of Poland, Rzeszów was annexed by the Austrian Empire and did not regain its position until it returned to Poland after WW1. During WW2, Rzeszów’s large Jewish community perished in the Holocaust.  I visited the Synagogue’s art gallery to see the latest exhibition, a Pisarek family affair it seems -Krzysztof, Renata and Anna. Liked the portraits and the horse!     Then onto Sandomierz….

It’s one of the oldest and historically most significant cities in Poland. Archeological finds around the city indicate that humans have inhabited the area since neolithic times.The city came into existence in the early Middle Ages, taking advantage of an excellent location at the junction of Vistula and San rivers, and on the path of important trade routes. The first known historical mention of the city comes from the early 12thC, when the chronicler Gallus Anonymus ranked it together with Krakow and Wroclaw as one of the main cities of Poland.

In the middle of the 14thC, the city was burned again during a raid by the Lithuanians. It was rebuilt in the 14thC during the rule of king Casimir 111 of Poland.
The layout of the city has survived practically unchanged since that time until the present day.The Cathedral is Gothic, constructed in 1360. Renovated in the Baroque style in the 18thC. My favourite religious place in the country!!! Jan Dlugosz (House Museum)…Polish priest, diplomat, chronicler of historic events, soldier and secretary to Bishop Zbigniew Olesnicki of Krakow. Wrote about the 1410 Battle of Grunwald. Young people today dressed in costumes of older decades. Such fun! Check out the mosaic….I will never have the patience to do such fine work! But can totally appreciate it.

 



 

October 9, 2017
by Lids
Comments Off on 7/10/17 Zamość

7/10/17 Zamość

On 10 April 1580, Chancellor and Great Crown Hetman Jan Zamoyski issued a foundation charter, declaring the beginning of construction of Zamość, on a trade route link between northwest Europe and the Black Sea.  The process lasted more than 10 years.  The town soon became known as a centre of progress, science, culture, and art in Poland. To ensure safety, Zamość was surrounded with defensive walls with 7 bastions at their bends; mighty cannons on top of the bastions protected the town. From the south and west, access to the town was blocked by marsh; from the east and north, by a deep moat. Despite its heptagonal fortifications, there were invasion try-ons by different groups – Cossacks and Swedes in 17thC, Russians in the 19thC – besieged, stormed but never captured! In 1821, the ‘ruling’ Zamoyski family exchanged their ownership of the town, for land ownership concessions. Zamość, became a government fortress of the Congress Kingdom of Poland. During WW2, Zamość was captured first by the Soviets and then by the German army. 

Zamość is a lovely example of a Renaissance town, modelled on Italian trading cities of the period, complete with its original layouts and fortifications. The market place is the showpiece of the town with the town hall, colourful Armenian houses and the Synagogue, which are reminders of the muti-cultural past of the town. Delicious zurek soup lunch at the 1590 restaurant “Morandowska”. And a nice trek home with autumnal tree change happening on the road and an ‘unthought-through’ planting at a house on the edge of the highway! 🙂