For The Love of Travel

My favorite places, photos and stories

June 15, 2019
by Lids
Comments Off on 11/6/19 – 14/6/19 Nur-Sultan (previously Astana)

11/6/19 – 14/6/19 Nur-Sultan (previously Astana)

Interim President Toqaev recently decreed the capital’s name has changed to honour the President that has recently stepped down from the role after 30 years rule, Nursultan Nazarbaev. Not a popular move in the eyes of the public apparently because it ‘honours’ years of political oppression and autocratic rule.

A visionary despot with progressive views about the importance of education, investment in infrastructure, culture and technological competency, economic reform – Nursultan oversaw the transformation of the country (from the legacy left after the collapse of the Soviet Union), to becoming one of the most modernized in Central Asia. A country with a population of about 18 million, oil-rich, the majority religion being Muslim, with Kazakh and Russian being spoken as languages.

Nur-Sultan is a city that’s been master planned, with an extensive ‘green belt’. I particularly came to see it’s incredible modernist architecture, and I have not been disappointed. Hope you enjoy the images.

Firstly, the beautiful Baiterek tower, emblematic of the city and considered a symbol of post-independence Kazakhstan.

Baiterek tower

Jumped on a bus to visit the Khan Shatyr Shopping and Entertainment Centre and got a dramatic image of the tent-like exterior of the building, just after a storm ended.

Khan Shatyr Centre

Expo 2017 hosted by Astana was on the theme “Future Energy – How do we ensure safe and sustainable access to energy for all while reducing CO2 emissions”? It was the first time that a major international exhibition of this kind was hosted in a country from the former Soviet Union. Adrian Smith and Gordon Gill Architecture out of Chicago won the design contract for the grounds. This image of the Expo site was taken after one storm had hit and another was developing.

Expo site

The turquoise-tiled Central Concert Hall is a centre for performing arts, designed by Italian architects Manfredi Nicoletti, with a swirling, circular design intended to evoke the petals of a flower (I didn’t capture the image quite on the right angle). Symphony orchestra and traditional Kazakh music concerts are held here.

Concert Hall

The Kazakhstan National University of the Arts is a bold blue dog bowl-like looking building, accommodating 1,000 students and 200 staff; and a syllabus that covers music, choreography, theatre, cinema and TV.

National Uni of the Arts (not sure why there were small cannons in front)

Hazrat Sultan Mosque is the largest mosque in Central Asia with a capacity for 10,000 worshippers. The colossal building resembles an oriental palace, whose 3 year construction involved over 1,500 builders. The mosque was named in honor of one of Sufi sheikhs – Khoja Ahmed Yassawi (the XII century), who was a poet, philosopher and Muslin saint. Two images of the mosque – one taken just after a deluge when I first arrived in the city and one taken on my last night.

I was too early for the cheesy sound and light show “singing fountains” which starts at 9:00PM in the evening – Las Vegas on the Kazakh steppe if you will. Still, a nice bit of colour during the blue hour as the sun was setting.

Singing Fountains

The Presidential Palace “Ak-Orda”,  is a large white four-storey building, with a blue cupola – which houses the Grand Central Hall, the Hall of Press Conferences, Gala Hall and Winter Garden. Each of the floors and Halls have specific functions, for example, the Marble Hall is used to sign agreements with leaders of other states. The Oval Hall is designed for summit talks, and a hall in a form of a traditional Kazakh yurt (tent), a hall for extended negotiations.

Presidential Palace

I walked along the right embankment of the Ishim River just after sunset to capture an image of the Palace, and a slow shutter speed revealed a reflection of the Palace in the river, which pleased me greatly!

Sunset on a lovely coppery green hued building, the name of which escapes me!
I first noticed the white columns…..and then the ugly foreground…..”need to clean up the front yard folks”!

June 13, 2019
by Lids
Comments Off on 9/6/19 and 10/6/19 Vyborg

9/6/19 and 10/6/19 Vyborg

A population of about 80,000, 30kms from the Finnish border, Vyborg sits as a gateway between the East Slavic and Finnish worlds, with the town ‘changing hands’ several times during history, mostly recently in 1944 when Stalin got it as part of WW11 reparations. The city hosts the end of the Nord Stream gas pipeline and operated by a consortia led by Russia’s Gazprom to pump billions of gas under the Baltic to Germany. Industrial paper production is the other important industry and tourism is growing. Its an important port and rail junction.

By A.Savin (Wikimedia Commons · WikiPhotoSpace)

It’s dominated by a medieval castle and peppered with beautiful Finnish art nouveau buildings and cobblestone streets.

The castle was built by Swedes in the 13thC; with the main attraction now being to climb the many steps of St Olaf’s tower (closed when I visited) for commanding views over the town .

And the beautifully designed 1935 library by Finnish architect Alvar Aalto.

Circular skylights in the reading rooms and elegant birchwood shelves are among the many features.

Loved the moose sculpture in the adjacent gardens – the lilacs were out in bloom too.

The Clock Tower started life in 1494 as a simple bell tower of Vyborg’s Cathedral; then served as a fire watchtower. In the 18thC, was installed with a clock and Catherine 11 presented a warning bell to Vyborg, so it’s been chiming on the hour ever since.

The Round Tower in the Market Square used to be part of the town ramparts that guarded the town. A restaurant since 1923. School groups were out in force doing community service ‘clean ups’ in the Square, brushing up dust from the cobblestones and bagging it (not sure just how much actually made it into the bags!)….and these gals were giggling and leaning on their brooms, A LOT.

Wandered into Krasnaya Place square to behold another dramatic statue of Lenin, who’s been watching city life since 1957. People come to feed the pigeons and mothers allow their little darlings to practice car driving skills (needed as early as possible!)

The little girl had her foot to the board !

Finally, discovered the oldest house in Vyborg, the 16thC Burger manor….built by the Swedes from granite boulders, with an attic, basement and thick walls; fortress-like in design but quiet small. Located on the oldest street in Vyborg, where in the Middle Ages, cattle were driven to pasture.

June 9, 2019
by Lids
Comments Off on 8/6/19 Chesme Church, BelleVue Brasserie

8/6/19 Chesme Church, BelleVue Brasserie

The Chesme Church is a small Russian Orthodox Church, built by the Russian court architect, Yury Felton in 1780, at the direction of  the Empress of Russia, Catherine the Great. It was erected adjacent to the Chesme Palace; between St Petersburg and Pushkin, to commemorate the anniversary of Russia’s 1770 victory over Turkish forces in the Aegean, Chesme Bay.

Aivazovsky’s “Battle of Çesme at Night”

The Church and Chesme Palace were the earliest Neo-Gothic constructions in the St Petersburg area. Considered by some to be St Petersburg’s single most impressive church, it is a rare example of very early Gothic Revival influence in Russian church architecture.

You have to love the pink and white candy-like appearance of this building. Nothing else around like it!

A relatively modest outfitting inside

And a late lunch for my last day in St Petersburg, on the 9th floor of the Kempinski Hotel, @ BelleVue Brasserie. In an 1853 mansion along the Moika River, this upscale hotel is a 6-minute walk from the State Hermitage Museum and has a 360-degree view of the city.

Church on Spilled Blood

The spectacular panoramas of historical St. Petersburg with its beautiful landmarks, such as the Palace Square, the Hermitage Museum,  St Issac’s Cathedral, and the Church on Spilled Blood. 

Terrace views to Peter and Paul’s

I had the Kamchatka crab salad (with salmon caviar, daikon radish, aioli and wakame dressing),  the restaurant’s signature dish, was pleasant, but in my view, not worth the 2900 roubles ($64 AUS). Kamchatka is a remote peninsula in eastern Russia, by the Bering Sea. These crabs can grow to up to 1.8metre (leg span) and are a real delicacy.

I not really a sweet fan (creme brulee; panna cotta and lemon meringue tart excepted). But I was really hanging out to try the “L’Hermitage” dessert, inspired by the splendid architecture and in honour of the Hermitage’s 250 anniversary, but the Chef is trying out a new menu at present. Curses!  

Just have a look at this dessert image of the past…whitened exquisite dark choc forms a perfect sphere full of hidden treasures – a fluffy panna cotta; raspberry jelly and a tiny layer of biscuit and honey mousse; nestled on a spire of fresh raspberries. AHHH!

As I was leaving, I spied these lads on a “Rooftops of St Petersburg” tour, enjoying a different perspective over the city