For The Love of Travel

Plyos, the pearl of the Volga, is a tranquil town of old wooden houses and hilly streets winding down to the river. 

The town’s historical renown stems from an artist’s retreat in the late 19th century, Issac Levitan, Russia’s most celebrated landscape painter. It was he who made the view from Sobornaya Hill, one of Russia’s most recognised images.  Plyos became wealthy in the 19th century and brick buildings were built there when the small town on the Volga became a centre for bread and fish trade in Russia.

The mansions of past merchants are still a delight to the eye on the embankment walkway.  In the 19th century, Plyos had already become a favourite destination as a retreat for the nobility, artists and other holidaymakers from Moscow on hot summer days.  It was at this time, when Plyos was a holiday town that the painter Issac Levitan came here with his friends. Plyos’ themes were reflected in Levitan’s paintings called Quiet Abode and Evening Bells, as well as in many others.

The Church of the Resurrection dominates market square and was built in the 19th century in honour of the victory over Napolean. During the Soviet era, the church was closed and fell into disrepair. In the early 2010’s, the church was resurrected thanks to a large sum of money from the then Russian President Medvedev.

Ex-Prime Minister Medvedev’s multibillion-rouble, 80 hectare country estate made history in the area, with anti-corruption activists claiming it has a murky money trail. Politician Alexey Navalny, published a drone video that shows the 19th century manor buildings, guest houses, staff hotel, private ski run, 3 helipads and a multi-tiered pool.

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The delightfully quirky Chastnyy Vizit hotel was my home for the night. Excellent customer service, hospitality, delicious food with elegant presentation.

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Vladimir was one of the country’s medieval capitals (in the 12th and 13th centuries), with significant buildings surviving from this time.  It’s original purpose was as a defensive outpost for the Rostov-Suzdal region.  It had a “Golden Age”, between 1108 and 1237, during which time it enjoyed immense growth and prosperity. Scores of Russian, German and Georgian masons worked on Vladimir’s white stone Cathedrals, monasteries, towers and palaces. Vladimir was besieged by Mongols in 1238 under Batu Khan and never fully recovered – Moscow superceded Vladimir in the 14th century as the seat of the “Grand Prince”.

The magnificent 5-domed Assumption Cathedral was designed as a sepulchur of grand princes, built in a 4 year period in the 12th century, and painted (icons and frescos) by the great Andrei Rublev and Daniil Chyorny in the 13th century.

The Cathedral of St Demetrius was built as a private chapel of Vsevolod the Big Nest (who was the Grand Prince of Vladimir during the “Golden Age” and reigned for over 30 years), in the courtyard of his palace.

The Golden Gate was initially a tower over the city’s main gate; then was topped with a barbican church – the structure survived the Mongol destruction of the city in 1238. But had deteriorated by the 18th century, so Catherine the Great ordered the vaults and barbican be demolished. The two flanking round towers were constructed to reinforce the structure and a new barbican was built.

St Nicholas Galeyskaya church has frescos dating back to the 12th century, and a spring theme happening around the church and altar, a member of the congregation explained to me. Lovely pink chrysanthenums in the little church garden as well.

Suzdal was built on the Kamenka river as a fortress in the the 10th century. It suffered the fate of many other Russian cities when it was conquered and sacked by the Mongol-Tatars during their invasion of Rus in 1238 and again in 1445.

Various ‘Princes’ got permission to rule from the Mongols, for a price.

In the 16th century, it became a religious centre of Russia with 11 monasteries and convents. More attacks in the 17th century, this time by the Polish-Lithuanian Interventionists, Crimean Tatars…and then the plague struck in 1654/55, which decimated half the population.

Economic decline in the 18th/19th centuries. A prison developed at the Spaso-Yevfimiev Monastery was used by Bolsheviks for political prisoners. 

Tourism is the way forward…many annual festivals and events are held attracting a huge number of tourists – Cucumber Day in July; Pancake week with goose fights in February; and the Festival of Mead in September to name a few.

The Cathedral of the Nativity is one of the 8 “White Monuments” of Vladimir and Suzdal, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and one of the more complex monuments of Russian medieval architecture from the 11th century. The Cathedral is surrounded by a ring of earthern walls in an oxbow of the Kamenka river.

Church of the Prophet Elijah  – great views from this site across the Kamenka river to the Cathedral of the Nativity.

Alexandrovsky convent was founded by a heroic military leader, Prince Alexander Nevsky, for women whose men had been killed by the Tatars.

Venerable bell tower –  the observation deck was small, the staircase was narrow; yes a great view, but pity is was dull and grey when I went up (too early) and no photos worth reproducing of my own.

A meal at Gostinyy Dvor restaurant came recommended – had lunch of borsch and beef/pork dumplings – how more Russian can you get??? And delicious fare.
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