For The Love of Travel

My favorite places, photos and stories

February 21, 2016
by Lids
Comments Off on 20/2/16 Cuverville Island – Brown Station, and the Lemaire Channel

20/2/16 Cuverville Island – Brown Station, and the Lemaire Channel

Cuverville Island is home to a wealth of breeding birds including a large Gentoo penguin colony. Lots of drizzle, very icy and penguin poo slippery DSC07731conditions onshore when we traipsed out for a walk – more of a slip slide really. I didn’t last long, 15 mins tops.

We sail from Cuverville Island to Paradise Harbour – the surrounding mountains spire upwards. Argentinia and Chile have scientific bases here. The Argentinian delegation were out in kayaks when we arrived. Lots of beautiful glaciers.  IMG_3446 IMG_3456 IMG_3364

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Out on the zodiac to explore the and we come upon some crabeater seals and blue-eyed shags.     Also saw an avalanche off a glacier – awesome!   Lemaire Channel (names after a Belgian explorer of the Congo) is the most narrow and scenic channel of our voyage (7 miles long and one mile wide), with spectacular peaks either side. So we head for an early dinner, then rug up and go out on deck to see the sunset over the channel.  IMG_3581 IMG_3550

February 20, 2016
by Lids
Comments Off on 18/2 – 19/2/16 Drake Passage to Barrientos Island (Aitcho group), South Shetland Islands

18/2 – 19/2/16 Drake Passage to Barrientos Island (Aitcho group), South Shetland Islands

We had a great ‘crossing’ of the Drake…took a prophylactic Meclizine tab just in case it got a bit roller coaster-ish overnight, but no, just some 5 metre swells that rocked the ship, lulling (me) to sleep. Not so for other poor folk unfortunately!

Set the alarm for sunrise in anticipation of majestic hues….arrrh, lots of fog instead! We woke up truly in Antarctic waters, south of the 60th parallel, having crossed ‘the Convergence’, where Atlantic and Pacific oceans meet (and the water temperature drops by 3 degrees instantly because of the glacial melt).

Our destination this afternoon is the Aitcho Islands, a small archipelago in the northern entrance to English Strait. Gentoo and Chinstrap penguins (some moulting adults and cute chicks!) abound on this island. We might also see (another thing to try to photo) southern giant petrels, Wilson’s storm petrels, blue-eyed shags and skuas. Grey skies, slight drizzle, but we are all pumped for our first zodiac landing on Antarctic shores……

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February 17, 2016
by Lids
Comments Off on 16/2/16 Ushuaia

16/2/16 Ushuaia

Cloudy, sleeting, howling wind on my arrival into Ushuaia. Caught a ‘sight seeing bus’ around town. A brief history of the township (pop 80,000):

The Selk’nam Indians also called the Ona, first arrived in Tierra del Fuego (Land of Fire) about 10,000 years ago. The southern group of the Selk’nam, the Yaghan (also known as Yámana), occupied what is now Ushuaia, living in continual conflict with the northern inhabitants of the island.

A Portuguese expedition led by Magellan in 1580 ended in an armed confrontation with the Selk’nam, the beginning of a complex relationship between indigenous people and Europeans until colonization practically exterminated them. 

Ushuaia was founded informally by British missionaries, long before Argentine nationals or government representatives arrived on a permanent basis. The British ship HMS Beagle, under the command of Captain Robert FitzRoy, first reached the channel in 1833.

The Argentinians claimed claim In 1872, with the hoisting of the flag on the arrival of Commodore Augusto Laserre, commander of the expeditionary division of the Argentinian Navy to the South Atlantic. In 1885, Ushuaia became the capital and seat of the Government of Tierra del Fuego. 

In an effort to attract permanent residents from Argentina to settle in this remote area,  a penal colony was established, modelled on Tasmania’s! In 1896 the prison received its first inmates, mainly re-offenders and dangerous prisoners transferred from Buenos Aires, but also some political prisoners. They became forced colonists and spent much of their time building the town from timber from the forest and a railway to the settlement (the “End of the World” train).

Today, there is a base for the Argentinian navy; population growth has been encouraged by declaring Tierra del Fuego a tax free zone. Ushuaia has developed  infrastructure for both residents and tourists including a fully functional hospital, international airport, educational institutions and a public transport system. The cost of living however, is relatively high, as all goods have to be transported long distances, usually by container ship.

Checked out Trip Advisor re places for dinner and was very glad I selected “Kaupe”, and had a delicious King Crab cooked in a cream, onion, tomato, mustard and pepper sauce. Yummo!! And it’s location is on a hill, with sweeping views over the Beagle channel. Looking forward to catching up with sailing chums tomorrow – we rendezvous at the airport before being taken out for a catamaran lunch on said channel. Then its off to Antartica! Woo hoo!

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