For The Love of Travel

My favorite places, photos and stories

July 12, 2016
by Lids
Comments Off on 5/7/16 Atur, Perigord

5/7/16 Atur, Perigord

Woo hoo, arrived at Bergerac airport to be picked up by my friends, Sue and Keith, who have invited me to their holiday home in the village of Atur.

Even though I was first in line for customs, I was sent to the back of the queue as the officials did not have their “stamp” for those of us that are non EU! They had to go to another building to retrieve it. Anyway when the customs official came out of the airport hangar with me (it was a small airport)…Sue said, “she’s in trouble already” in french, which made the official laugh. Always good to have dour officials laugh! customs

40 mins later, we are sitting on the Wintersgill’s patio sipping a cold rosé, enjoying the warmth of summer in the Perigord region and looking forward to supper.DSC03093 DSC03091DSC03085

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now a brief history of the area…..

In the 1st century, Perigord was under Julius Caesar’s Roman rule, part of Gaul ( ‘Aquitania’), an area extending from the Pyrenees to the Garonne River.   A Visigothic province in the 5th century, Aquitaine came under Frankish rule in the 6th century, retaining a measure of provincial identity exploited by local rulers.  Long resistant, Aquitaine was finally subdued in the 8th century by Charlemagne, who bestowed it as a kingdom upon his son Louis (the future emperor Louis I). It remained a kingdom under Louis’s son Pippin 1 and grandson Pippin 11.

Devastation by the Normans in the 9th century resulted in political and social upheavals during the course of which various feudal domains were established. The title of duke of Aquitaine, was assumed at the end of the 9th century by William 1(the Pious), and the founder of the abbey of Cluny. The powerful house of the counts of Poitiers retained Aquitaine during the 10th and 11th centuries.

In the 12thC,  Eleanor, daughter of William V111 of Poitiers,  united Aquitaine to the kingdom of France by her marriage with Louis V11. When Louis divorced her, she married English Henry 11, who gave it to his son, Richard the Lion Heart. He spent most of his his life in Aquitaine, ‘subduing rebellious vassals’!  These regions were completely reunited to France by the end of the Hundred Years’ War, in the mid-15th century.

Geographically, Périgord is an upland region on the southwestern flanks of the Massif Central, drained westward by the Lot, Dordogne, and other tributaries of the Garonne.
Regional cuisine features truffles, and fine pâtés de foie gras. Geese are penned in November and force-fed corn (maize) cooked with fat and salt; geese and ducks are slaughtered by Christmas for foie gras. The wings and thighs are seasoned and canned. Since I’ve known about how the poor geese are force fed, I have not been interested in sampling foie gras. But its on all menus in the region. Ce n’est pas bon!
Wild boars are occasionally raised for pâté. Much of the area is forested, and mixed farming is common. Traditional industries include food processing and the manufacture of textiles, wood, and leather products. The area around Bergerac, particularly Monbazillac, specializes in wine production.

July 10, 2016
by Lids
Comments Off on 2/7 -3/7/16 London

2/7 -3/7/16 London

Very late arrival into London due to plane delay…and my very patient friend, Diana, stayed up to offer me a much needed night cap and having not seen each other for a few years, we talked into the wee hours!

Saturday was a leisurely day of shopping and Diana had booked theatre tickets to see “A View from Islington North”, a political satire. We caught the bus to the Westend in the evening and saw a late reaction from people to the news that the UK had voted to exit the EU!!636030618898652779-01

We had a pizza dinner before the show and made our way to Theatre Arts. Out of Joint theatre company’s evening of political satire collected works old and new by some of the UK’s best-known playwrights, taking potshots at several elements of the current political establishment. They made merry with machinations behind the closed doors of the UK’s major political parties. The cult of the free market, was attacked through a visitation from it’s high priestess, Ayn Rand.  The cost of military adventures was highlighted as a soldier’s mother does all she can to avoid hearing the news she dreads (from deputised army representatives). It was funny, angry, and playful. Great to see and the actors did a great job. As TS Eliot once said, “Politics has become too serious a matter to be left to politicians”.

Then a leisurely Sunday lunch at Diana’s – a magnificent feast with lovely company from Helen and Ashley, Derek and Jan.  And fabulous weather so we could enjoy Diana’s glorious garden.DSC03008 DSC03010

July 10, 2016
by Lids
Comments Off on 1/7/16 Glasgow

1/7/16 Glasgow

DSC02952DSC02960Today I visited the magnificent Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum: which has 22 themed galleries displaying an astonishing 8000 objects, brought together from across Glasgow Museums’ rich and varied collection.  Walked into the beautiful Victorian entrance hall while an organ concert was in full performance. DSC02956  DSC02966

I loved the gallery dedicated to the Glasgow Boys. The ‘Boys’ – an informal alliance of some 20 artists that came together in the early 1880s – were determined to challenge the formulaic landscapes and narrative subjects of late Victorian Scottish painting, and to develop a distinctive style of naturalist painting. Initially rustic realism, then more decorative and almost abstract styles developed…almost Gauginesque and some Japanese inspired offerings as well. Really enjoyed this gallery.

One of ‘the boys’,  James Lavery, painted a portrait of Anna Pavlova….The Observer critic in 1911 wrote that his painting caught Anna ‘in  a moment of graceful, weightless movement download… Her miraculous, feather-like flight, seems to defy the law of gravitation’. Anna made her debut as soloist with the Imperial Russian Ballet in 1899, but gained fame when she danced with Nijinsky in Diaghilev’s Ballets Russes in Paris in 1909.

91517The Art Gallery houses Salvador Dali’s Christ of St John of the Cross. Painted in 1951 and purchased by the City of Glasgow in 1952, Dali’s iconic painting has become one of the best-loved in the entire collection, amongst Glaswegians and visitors. The painting was one of the more controversial purchases made by Dr Tom Honeyman, then Director of Glasgow Museums. It is now widely recognised that Dr Honeyman made a very astute decision, in proposing to the then Glasgow Corporation, that the painting should be purchased for the city. Not only did Honeyman secure the painting for less than the catalogue price, he also purchased the copyright for the work from Salvador Dali, thus ensuring a long-term legacy from the purchase.

A beautiful leadlight window, “The Coronation of the Blessed Virgin”, by Harry Clarke 1923. The window was commissioned for their chapel by the Sisters of Notre Dame de Namur to mark the 25th anniversary of their convent. It also commemorates those who died in WW1. DSC02973

The museum has a substantial focus on Scottish history and archaeology including a wealth of material relating to the early settlements across Scotland and life on St Kilda.

St Kilda is an isolated archipelago 64 kms west-northwest of North Uist in the North Atlantic Ocean. It contains the westernmost islands of the Outer Hebrides of Scotland. The largest island is Hirta, whose sea cliffs are the highest in the United Kingdom used for grazing and seabird hunting. The origin of the name St Kilda is a matter of conjecture. The earliest written records of island life date from the 13thC.  St Kilda may have been permanently inhabited for at least two millennia, the population probably never exceeding 180 (and certainly no more than 100 after 1851).  The medieval village on Hirta was rebuilt in the 19th century, but illnesses brought by increased external contacts through tourism, and the upheaval of the WW1 contributed to the island’s evacuation in 1930.

Just as an interesting “by the way”, St Kilda (Melbourne) was named in 1842, when Superintendent La Trobe, at a champagne picnic on the Green Knoll overlooking Port Phillip Bay, suggests that the area be called ‘St Kilda’ after the schooner-yacht Lady of St Kilda anchored off the foreshore.  The yacht, in turn, had been named in 1834 by its then owner Sir Thomas Dyke Acland, as a tribute to his intrepid wife who, in 1812, was the first English Lady to be rowed ashore to the remote Hebridean archipelago of St Kilda.

DSC02987 (1)On the way back to the hotel, saw Glasgow’s ancient cathedral which is dedicated to its patron saint, St Mungo who established a church on the site at the beginning of the 7th century.

The seven-storey Tolbooth Steeple is Glasgow Cross’ (a crossroads) most important feature and it is topped by a clock and a stone crown. This was once part of a much larger building, the Tolbooth, which provided accommodation for the Town Clerk`s office, the council hall and the city prison. The debtors` prison had a steady stream of inmates who elected their own `provost` and generally ran the place like an exclusive club. DSC02991 (1)The Tolbooth provided the backdrop to many of the city`s dramas and it was here that witches, thieves and murderers were summarily dealt with, by hanging if necessary. It also had a special platform from which proclamations were read, important in the days before general literacy.   The paved area (the `plainstanes`) in front of the Tolbooth was the `in place` to be seen and here the rich paraded in their finery, particularly the Tobacco Lords, attired in red cloaks and sporting gold-topped canes.

Glasgow Cross developed as a communications hub, with stagecoaches from Edinburgh and London bringing visitors and news, and a reading room in the Tolbooth providing newspapers. However, as the city expanded and moved westwards, the Tolbooth was abandoned and eventually demolished, leaving the steeple as an isolated reminder of bygone days.

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