For The Love of Travel

My favorite places, photos and stories

September 23, 2017
by Lids
Comments Off on 21 – 22/9/17, Cesky Krumlov

21 – 22/9/17, Cesky Krumlov

Got my Budget rent a car in Prague, and tried to work the GPS. The guy who handed over the car couldn’t speak English. Grrr. Anyway, using my Iphone which wasn’t connected to Internet, but nevertheless showed me where I was in the city…managed to get myself on a highway out of Prague to Cesky Krumlov, some 170kms away. When I arrived, discovered I’d have to park my car and walk into town, taking only what I could carry to the hotel. Really happy with the boutique hotel that I had chosen….only about 700m from car park, delightful Czech cooking and super friendly staff. The green/red ceramic looking thing to the right, is a heater – they stoke a fire inside and it keeps you warm over winter months, a “Pech”, its called.
As soon as you leave the carpark, you see the amazing viaduct and you walk under it to access the town. Unrivalled even among UNESCO world heritage sites, this 700 year-old village is full of magic. With a river looping around twice, you can’t help but walk around in circles all day in amazement, as I did, certainly the first afternoon.

Cesky Krumlov (“crooked meadow” after a bend of the Vltava river), settlement arose beneath the castle, which was erected from about 1240 onwards by a local branch of the noble Vitkovki family, decendants of Witiko of Prcice, whose ‘line’ eventually ran out!

Krumlov was then ruled by the following family sequence: Rosenbergs, Hapsburgs, Eggenbergs and Schwartzenbergs (1719-1945).

Cesky Krumlov was part of the German-Austrian Bohemian Forest Region, but by the end of 1918, the Czechoslovak army occupied the region. In 1938 it was annexed by Nazi Germany under the Munich Agreement. After WW2, the town’s longstanding German speaking population was expelled and it was returned to Czechoslovakia. During the communist era, historic Krumlov fell into disrepair, but since the Velvet Revolution of 1989 much of the town’s former beauty has been restored. Yay ?!!  

St Vitus Church, lacked the capacity to serve the needs of the growing population of the capital residential town of the Rosenbergs. So Peter 1 von Rosenberg looked after its reconstruction between 1407 and 1439. Baroque tower, neo gothic interiors that are rich both in design and in material used.

The Monastery of the Order of the Knights of the Red Star, was founded in 1350 at the initiative of the Krumlov ruler Peter I of Rosenberg and his wife Kateřina as a common monastery of Minorites and Clare nuns. From the end of the 14th century, the complex also included a house for lay religious women, called “beguines“. The stay of the Clare nuns was  brought to an end by reforms of Emperor Joseph II in 1785, but the Minorites stayed in the monastery until as late as 1950. After that the monastery premises were used for secular purposes. Incredible Baroque church and chapel.

 

 

 

 

A pear and nut strudel for lunch! Delicious.

And a visit to see an Egon Schiele exhibition (a protege of Gustav Klimt’s), of paintings done when he visited Cesky Krumlov from Vienna. His work is noted for its intensity, an early exponent of Expressionism, so sad he died at 28 from flu. 

September 23, 2017
by Lids
Comments Off on 19/9/17, Lobkowicz Palace, Prague

19/9/17, Lobkowicz Palace, Prague

No-one tells you that the Prague Castle has a precinct that encapsulates a number of palaces, the significant St Vitus Baroque church and….what I was particularly looking for…the Lobkowicz Palace (the no.1 museum in Prague because of its collections).

The Lobkowicz family is among the oldest and most distinguished Bohemian noble families. For more than 700 years they have played a prominent role in Central European history. The successive generations have not only held the titles of Princes of the Holy Roman Empire, but were patrons of artists such as Ludwig von Beethoven and collectors/caretakers of exceptional cultural heritage.

Lobkowicz Palace was built in the second half of the 16th century by the Czech nobleman Jaroslav Pernštejn (1528-1569). The Pernštejns were then the richest and most powerful lordly family of the Czech kingdom.

The Palace came into the Lobkowicz family through the marriage of Polyxena to Zdeněk Vojtěch, 1st Prince Lobkowicz (1568-1628). Polyxena was the daughter of the famous couple, Vratislav Pernstejn and Maria Manrique de Lara.

In the centuries following that marriage, the Palace witnessed some of Bohemia’s most significant historical events. In 1618, the famous Defenestration of Prague took place when Protestant rebels threw the Catholic Imperial Ministers from the windows of the Royal Palace at Prague Castle. Surviving the fall, they took refuge in Lobkowicz Palace, where they were protected from further assault by Polyxena, 1st Princess Lobkowicz.

Following the defeat of the Protestant faction at the Battle of White Mountain in 1620, the Catholic Lobkowicz family consolidated its influence and power base for the next three centuries. Lobkowicz Palace took on a more formal, Imperial role and functioned as the Prague residence when the family needed to be present at the seat of Bohemian power for political and ceremonial purposes.

With the exception of the sixty-three years (1939-2002) during which the property was confiscated and held by Nazi and later Communist powers, the Palace has belonged to the Lobkowicz family. This is one of MANY properties owned – they are rich, rich, rich!!! Lovely classical concert for an hour in the Palace precinct. 

Great views over Prague from the Palace Terrace …and yummy fresh fruit/ice-cream shop at the end of the 280 step staircase you climb down to get to transport options.

September 22, 2017
by Lids
Comments Off on 18/9/17, around Prague

18/9/17, around Prague

Pařížská Street is considered the most exclusive – and expensive – street in the whole of Prague. The street links the Old Town Square with the Cechuv Bridge and on both sides it is lined with mainly Art Noveau, beautifully decorated residential buildings, most of them were built in the first decade of the 20th century.

The beautiful St. Nicholas Church at the Old Town Square was completed in 1735, and replaced a parish church mentioned in records dating back to 1273.  St. Nicholas is a Baroque church, the interior of which was inspired by the chapel of St. Louis-des-invalides in Paris. The delicate stucco decoration was executed by Bernardo Spinetti, and the frescos by Peter Adam the Elder. The sculptures are by Antonín Braun.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Franz Kafka (lovely statue) was a novelist and short story writer, widely regarded as one of the major figures of 20thC literature, exploring themes of alienation, anxiety, guilt and absurdity. 

Delicious mushroom risotto (with gorgonzola foam) lunch – all that I needed to keep me going! 

Lots of walking around today and a leisurely river dinner cruise  tonight.