For The Love of Travel

My favorite places, photos and stories

September 17, 2017
by Lids
Comments Off on 13/9/17 Reichstag and Filarmonica della Scala, Berlin

13/9/17 Reichstag and Filarmonica della Scala, Berlin

A light day today, not feeling great with cold. Pared down to 2 events.

I had booked to see “the Dome” at the Reichstag this morning, followed by what I hoped would be a lovely brekky at the Kafer Berlin restaurant on the roof terrace. Teemed down with rain and a howling wind! Great! Brolly inverted at least 4 times with the squall. Got water on the camera lens. Arggh! Gave up trying to take arty photo shots.

The Reichstag (Renaissance/Baroque Revival architecture), opened in 1894, was designed to house the German parliament, and did so until 1933, when it was severely damaged by fire. After WW2, it was left vacant, with both the West and East German governments choosing other venues. Full reconstruction began in 1990 after German reunification, under Norman Foster and again became the meeting place of the German Parliament in 1999.

The glass dome, which has immediately become the landmark of the Reichstag/Bundestag, glitters at night. In its technical function, the dome, which is made possible by a funnel-shaped light deflection element with 360 mirrors, brings additional daylight into the plenary chamber. Conversely, the funnel, which reaches into the plenum, transports the exhaust air of the room up into the open.  

Lovely roof top restaurant in which I had brekky, mushroom omlette with dill sauce.

 Took a taxi tonight to the Berlin Philharmonic complex to hear Filarmonica della Scala from Milan, playing Brahms’ 3 movement, Concerto for Violin, D Major, op.77, first premiered in 1879 in Leipzig.  Leonidas Kavakos is a Greek violinist and conductor. As a violinist, he has won prizes at several international violin competitions, including the Sibelius, Paganini, and Indianapolis competitions. He’s been a guest conductor for both the London and Boston Philharmonic orchestras. And guess what…he was the violin maestro tonight. Amazing to listen to him and the audience went wild after his playing of the first 3 movements. I think it was 6 bows later, he went off for a 15 min break with the conductor (Riccardo Chailly) and orchestra. Truly appreciated being able to watch him.  And unfortunately I had to go at interval, I was struggling to suppress my cough despite drugs – didn’t want to splurt a cough in the midst of a Verdi overture….

September 14, 2017
by Lids
Comments Off on 10/9/17, Malbork Castle

10/9/17, Malbork Castle

The Castle of the Teutonic Order in Malbork is the largest medieval brick fortress in the world measured by land area.

It was built between the 13th and 15C by the Order of Brothers of the German House of St Mary in Jerusalem (aka Teutonic Knights). The Knights were initially founded as a military order around 1190 to aid Christians in the Holy Land and in the Baltics in the Middle Ages, and to establish hospitals. “To help, defend and heal”was their motto.

Poles and Germans have fought wars for centuries but the origins of Malbork castle display a rare example of their military cooperation – albeit one that backfired. In this case, a 13thC Polish prince, Konrad Mazowiecki, asked the Knights to help his soldiers defeat the Prussians, a Baltic people who blocked Poles access to the sea. The Knights moved their headquarters out of Venice and set out to convert or kill thousands of Prussians. By the early 14thC they were ruling their own expanding state from Malbork, fighting both the Prussians and Poles who finally defeated them at the Battle of Grunwald in 1410.

 In 1466, both castle and town became part of Royal Prussia, a province of Poland. It served as one of the several Polish royal residences, interrupted by several years of Swedish occupation, and fulfilling this function until there were 3 partitions by Russia, Austria and Prussia -which divided up the Polish/Lithuanian Commonwealth lands among themselves progressively in the process of territorial seizures. These resulted in the elimination of sovereign Poland for 123 years.

With the rise of Adolf Hitler to power in the early 1930s, the Nazis used the castle as a destination for annual pilgrimages of both the Hitler Youth and the League of German Girls. In 1945, during World War 2 combat in the area (Soviet Red Army driving east), more than half the castle was destroyed.

Renovated in the second half of the 20th century and most recently in 2016. Nowadays, the castle hosts exhibitions and serves as a museum.

To explore the whole site inside and outside would take days…I had time to experience the large high square castle within the ramparts – comprising meeting halls, huge wooden doors on draw bridges, cloisters, refectory, sleeping quarters, chapel, rose garden – different levels of the castle being linked by internal steep and somewhat hidden stone and wooden staircases, quite a rabbit warren. But ably guided around by my GPS enabled audio guide that switched its description depending on the passageway or room I entered. Amazing technology.

And as an aside… I couldn’t believe how rail-thin Polish women walked easily in heels, HIGH HEELS, over the extensive cobblestone pathways…and then there’s me, with my sensible walking shoes (read hiking boots), stumbling about in the drizzle. 🙂

Incredible paintings, sculptures, frescos,  ceiling and fireplace decorations, including “Jesus at Gethsemane”, a masterpiece of Gothic sculpture (c. 1390) originally from Torun, which is on display at the Castle. 

September 14, 2017
by Lids
Comments Off on 8/9 – 9/9/17, Bydgoszcz

8/9 – 9/9/17, Bydgoszcz

Bydgoszcz, located between the Vistula and Oder rivers, is the seat of Casimir the Great University, and hosts the Pomeranian Philharmonic concert hall and the Opera Nova opera house.  It’s an architectural rich city with neo gothic, neo baroque, neo-classicist , modernist AND … Art Nouveau styles present. Its got a nickname because of this, “little Berlin”! Lots of sculpted tree trunks left on street corners….

“The Man Crossing the River” sculpture by Jerzy Kedziora is fantastic – unveiled in  2004 to commemorate the Polish entry into the EU.

I loved Mill Island (Wyspa Mlynska) – very atmospheric and spectacular – the water, the foot bridges, historic red-brick tenement houses and the beautiful chestnut trees! Older dude trying chin-ups, only just made it. And a concert in the back ground…multi sensory experience all around!! 

‘Garden of Loves'( Kochanowskiego), was in colourful bloom as I walked to take a pic of the female archer statue…designed by Ferdinand Lepke and unveiled in 1910.  

The delightful ‘Deluge Fountain’, a monumental 6m tall sculpture, made of bronze, has stood with all its elements between 1904 and 1943. Needed to be rebuilt after the war….portrays the culmination of a flood, people and animals  who are left because they did not find shelter in a barge! 

Hotel pod Orlem (Eagle Hotel), an icon of 19thC of neo Baroque, was designed by the distinguished architect, Josef Swiecicki, who lays claim to designing about 60 buildings in the city. 

A lovely street , Cieszkowskiego, associated with the dynamic development of the city in the second half of the 19th century.  Its lavish buildings were erected during an economic boom and the consequent revival of construction activity in Bydgoszcz. New frontages were built on a grand scale, using the Art Nouveau design. 

Lots of ‘caryatids’ on buildings  (a sculpted female figure serving as an architectural support taking the place of a column or a pillar supporting a lintel on her head).