For The Love of Travel

Went to check out the historic cantilever Long Bien Bridge that links 2 districts (Hoan Kiem and Long Bien) across the Red River. 2.4kms in length, its construction was of strategic importance in securing control of North Vietnam. Built in 1899-1902 by Parisian architects and initially called the Paul Doumer Bridge (named after the Governor General of French Indo-China and then French President), it was rename after North Vietnam became independent in 1954. It was heavily bombed during the Vietnam War due to its critical position connecting Hanoi across the Red River to the port of Haiphong.

Today trains, mopeds, bicycles and pedestrians use the dilapidated bridge, while all other traffic is diverted to other nearby bridges. Poor families from remote rural areas live in boats under the bridge.

Coffee Cafe Restaurant and Bar, 4th floor, provides a great view of the Hoan Kiem roundabout – where scooters, trucks, cars, carts, bicycles and pedestrians all converge …and somehow manage to flow around each other to go on their way…..just a few toots of warning of their approach from faster vehicles, but absolutely no road rage at all. A wonder to behold!

Had lunch at the ‘Met Restaurant and Vegetarian Food’ and ordered a ginger/lemongrass tea – arrived with a little surprise package of ‘banh dau xanh’ (mung bean cake). The authentic cake has a Rong Vang (golden dragon) symbol, Emperor Bao Dai issued a royal decree in the 19thC to commend how good it was! Its slightly aromatic, buttery-fudge like – it MELTS in your mouth. Bringing a small pressie home for you all to try it.

The village, 35 kms from Hanoi, that upholds the tradition of incense-making for more than 100 years, is awash with vibrance, colour and spectacle! To Vietnamese, burning incense is the traditional ritual meant to build a bridge between the visible life of the present and the spiritual world of gods and past generations. Burning incense, daily – at home, temples or pagodas – is the first thing to do to establish an environment conducive to spiritual elevation and attract spirit attention!

Red and pink are the primary hues on display, but some green, purple and yellow have slipped in as well. Portraits of villagers and workers against colour-rich backgrounds, pics of incense set out to dry in various formations… make for brilliant and visually arresting photos. Making incense generates income for about 3,000 households, 70% of the village. 200 tonnes of bamboo is consumed daily in incense production. Wowsers!!

How do you make incense you ask? By first chopping bamboo into thin small smooth sticks, soaking in water for days and then drying them, before partially dipping the sticks in hot liquid dyes, letting them dry outdoors, mixing eucalyptus/cinnamon barks; clove roots; star anise and other aromatics with water and glue powder and applying the resultant incense paste to the sticks (the most difficult part of the process), and finally sun-drying one more time.

Just wandered the neighbourhoods of Hoan Kiem and the French Quarter. ‘Vi Mot Tuong Lai Xanh’ means ‘to a green future’.

I was mesmerised watching florist staff ‘reflexing’ roses, flipping petals outwards to create voluminous blooms.

The sun was shining and it was quite warm, a good reason for Hanoians eating ice creams today, from crispy cones shaped like conch-shells – the Trang Tien company has a business history of over 60 years and prides itself on an ice cream that’s free of additives, with a ‘gentle sweetness’.

The Children’s Palace, since 1976 has been a centre for culture, sports and political events for young people. This is a picture of Ho Chi Minh on the walls of the Palace. (Ho always had a commitment to promoting youth involvement in society, founding a National Youth Union in 1931). To keep pace with demand for activities, Government has announced an additional complex will be built for $56M – incorporating an 800 seat theatre, 200 seat 3D cinema, 500 seat stadium, 10 lane swimming pool, library and admin offices.

Tran Quoc Pagoda is the oldest Buddhist temple, constructed in the 6thC by Emperor Ly. Monks live onsite and teach Buddhism to locals. Incense is burned in the shrine to send wishes to the gods and receive good luck in return. Female Buddhas, known as “Mothers” are worshipped – the green mother has dominion over mountains and forests; the white mother over water; and red mother over the sky.The pagoda has a picturesque setting on West Lake.

On the way to dinner tonight, passed by locals shopping on their way home and eating at restaurants. Love the way trees and buildings are decorated with tiny lights…they make a colourful statement at night. Also found the famous ‘Train St’ – tiny, narrow, surrounded by high houses packed closely together, the train passes literally a few metres from houses. Because of tourists in the past being desperate to get an ‘Instagrammable’ photo (i.e. standing in the middle of the track to get a front-on pic), and on a few occasions, dying….there are now guards posted at the narrowest part, (trying to) prevent tourist entry.