For The Love of Travel

It was a long walk along Agenda Alcorta, but the glistening orb in the distance summoned. It was the sculpture “Floralis Generica”, a striking giant flower made of steel and aluminium. Gorgeous! 

As are one of my favorite trees here in Buenos Aires, the Palo Borracho. Their oval trunks remind me of chianti bottles that you see as candleholders in Italian restaurants. I have been told they are only full like this when there is water below for them to store. Palo Borracho means “drunken pole” and I’m not sure if it refers to fact that they store water or if they look like a wine bottle, either way it fits.  Most of the palo borracho trees in Buenos Aires have pink flowers, but some are somewhere in between white and yellow. I prefer the luscious pink flowers. They are a sight to behold.  

Visited the Latin American Art Museum of Buenos Aires (MALBA) created by Argentine businessman, Eduardo Costantini in 2001. Initially housing his private collection (made public),  the museum has continued to expand its selection of works from modern artists from across Latin America.  The mission of the MALBA is to collect, preserve, research and promote Latin Americana art from the onset of the 20th century to the present. Some nice stuff in Eduardo’s past collection – particularly like Diego Rivera; Frida Kahlo and Antonio Berni. 

There was a special exhibition of Claudia Andujar’s photos of the indigenous Yanomami tribe in Brazil in the 1980’s during a vaccination campaign to protect them from western diseases. She photo’d tribal people with numbers, as a health record that they had been vaccinated. There is a very touching ironical tale she tells about the very different ‘ branding of death’ (numbers) that her boyfriend and family received on their way to Auschwitz. Her work with the indigenous since the 1970’s led to land rights legislation being proclaimed in 1992 – what an inspirational woman!  

Walked around the streets surrounding MALBA – rich, rich, rich people live there, quite a few in Italianate splendour…and home to many embassies. 

Had to visit the Librería El Ateneo Grand Splendid, one of the grandest bookshops in Buenos Aires. Occupying a 1920s theatre in the city’s downtown, El Ateneo has kept the sumptuous auditorium’s original furnishings – balconies, painted ceiling, ornate carvings and crimson stage curtains – and added books. The former theatre boxes became intimate reading rooms. Putting finger to page, soaking in the cozy atmosphere in the café on the stage between red velvet curtains, a few hours perfectly spent. 

When Argentina’s wealthy and powerful rest for eternity, they do it in style.

Recoleta cemetery is one of the world’s most extraordinary graveyards, with over 6,400 grandiose mausoleums resembling Gothic chapels, Greek temples, fairytale grottoes and elegant little houses. The exclusive cemetery is the last stop for the country’s most celebrated (and controversial) presidents, intellectuals, army generals and entertainers, and a popular attraction for visitors to Buenos Aires. 

Probably the most famous, the first lady, Eva Peron (from family Duarte). She used her position to fight for women’s suffrage and improving the lives of the poor.  She also unofficially ran the health and labour ministries in her husband’s government. Three years after former First Lady Perón died of cancer in 1952, her body was removed by the Argentine military in the wake of a coup that deposed her husband, President Juan Perón. The body then went on a transatlantic odyssey for nearly twenty years before finally being returned to the Duarte family mausoleum in Recoleta Cemetery. She now lies in a crypt five meters underground, heavily fortified to ensure that no one can disturb the remains of Argentina’s most beloved and controversial First Lady.

“Fuerza Bruta” at the Recoleta Cultural Centre was incredible last night…..a unique show, a bit like a cross between Cirque du Soleil, Blue Man Group and a ‘healthy’ LSD trip. Still recovering from sensory overload. Loud music, pretty colors, crazy overhead acts and we got sprayed (yep wet through!, lucky only a 5 mins walk over the road to my hotel room).  

Walked into an exclusive store in Recoleta called La Martina, founded by Lando Simonetti, an Argentine of Italian origin, as a sports and leisure company in 1985. A keen polo player in his youth, Mr Simonetti saw an opportunity to provide professional players with high-quality equipment. He began by making leather saddles and boots, then added shirts and caps. To reinforce the brand’s Argentine roots, La Martina sourced 65 per cent of materials locally. La Martina has now been designated the official supplier of the Argentina polo teams by the Argentinean Polo Association. La Martina also equips the university teams from Harvard, Yale, Oxford and Cambridge and the College of St. Xavier in Mumbai as well as the English national team. What a lovely shop, I could have reclined in the red leather for ages, but instead took quick photos and exited…5 staff standing around looking intently at me.  

I wanted to see a tango show in Argentina, and booked for one of the 20 offerings tonight in Buenos Aires…the Piazzolla tango show. He was a composer of some of the most atmospheric tango music ever written and the venue is dedicated to his memory. A fantastic show – the band were all top class professionals and likewise the dancers.  I also enjoyed the two singers (who kept our attention during a couple of costume changes), who were a great bonus.  

OMG! Ricky Martin is performing in Buenos Aires on 11 and 12 March! I missed him in El Calafate a few weeks back….I tried to get tickets on line last night (there were $500 ones still available) but my bank was not being recognised by the ticket website program (curses), so I took myself off to the ticket office this morning, hoping against hope that there would be some good ones still available.  Stood in line for an hour before I got told they only had ‘standing’ tickets ….. doh! Saves me $500 but very sad that I couldn’t attend what will be an amazeballs! (boomers, check urban dictionary) concert.

Decided to sign up for a show called “Fuerza Bruta”, a ‘post modern’ theatre show that originated in Buenos Aires in 2003, created by Diqui James. (Post modern productions are centered on highlighting “the fallibility of definite truth, instead encouraging the audience to reach their own individual understanding”).  It apparently, is a very energetic spectacle, featuring interaction between the performers and the public, and is described as a 360 degree experience. Will let you know what that’s about, after I’ve attended a performance on 11/3! Got a general admission ticket! Also booked a ticket for a (totally restrained but hopefully spectacularly sensual) tango show tomorrow.

Long walk today from the Recoleta area I’m staying in, to the Obelisk and Teatro Colon (the main opera house in Buenos Aires, and acoustically considered to be amongst the five best concert venues in the world).  No performances before 15 March however – drats, would have loved to attend a ballet or musical event! Is there a theme developing here??

There’s quite a bit of building works going on in the city, so you step carefully along broken pavements; there’s lots of dust…and then you suddenly see the decorative entrance to a naval building circa 1880’s  …and park sculpture circa 1930’s…..that makes the walk worth it. 

Tired gal this afternoon, retired to hotel at 3pm after 5 hours of ambling. Fitbit has buzzed (hit 10,000 steps at noon!). English language TV, what a treat – watching back episodes late 1990’s/early 2000’s TV series of “Will and Grace”, and “Mad About You” – lovely.